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Leathercraft Techniques

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Sewing - alignment problem

Hi, I have a problem with my stitches. The problem is that the stitches are not aligned nicely, but are dancing (a little up, a little down). For example, I use the following pricking iron:

  • Hexagon pricking iron

  • Pricing iron tooth size 2mm

  • Distance between prickin iron tooths 3mm


I used thread of thickness 0.45mm.


The last product I had a problem with was a wallet, about 4mm thick.


I used the guitar technique when sewing (right hand down, left hand up).


I'm using that kind of sewing clamp: https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-e77e4/images/stencil/1280w/products/7118/60972/Leather_Stitching_Pony_w_clamp__39370.1707874680.jpg


Below is a picture where you can see the stitch (dont look at cornes and other mistakes, the only plan was to test the stitching line and align it). I used the pricking iron to pierce the leather all the way through. On one side I sewed as the pricking iron did, on one side I used a diamond owl to enlarge the hole from the sewing side, and on one side I used a diamond owl to create a hole from the back. All the stitches have the same problem (back of of the wallet is better vs the front), so I can probably rule out the hole problem.


Maybe it's because of the thickness itself? What can I do in this case?


If it is not, any idea or recommendation for a straight stitch?

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Thank you very much!

79 Views
Clement
Jun 27

Thank you ffzanchetta. Yes, I used a creasing tool but I agree that the line probably wasn't the straightest. But the idea with the tape is a very good one. I agree with second comment. I guess it's too thick. Edges are thiner because of sewing. Like I answer on Philip comment: I realized that it matters which side I finish first. So if I tighten the seam completely on the nice side of the leather and only then on the ugly side, the pattern is even. > it may be a solution for thin or harder leather, but not thick and soft. Your comment is very relevant and hopeful - thank you. Of course, it takes a lot of practice.

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