In this video we break down the art of the saddle stitch. You will be taken through the basic saddle stitch using an awl and a saddlers clam - the way it has been done for generations past, and still today in some of the most prestigious luxury leather goods brands. In this course you will learn: - Preparing the leather for stitching. - Accurate use of the pricking iron, troubleshooting common problems. - Threading a needle the easy way. - Use of the awl during the stitching process. - Standard saddle stitch, going over the basics. - Saddle stitch with a cast, and where you would use this. - Turned edge seam with a lining. - Bound edge seam. - French binding. - Relationships between thread thickness and stitches per inch /mm. The tutorial is aimed at the beginner to advanced leathercrafter who has already practised a basic hand stitch, but wants to learn new techniques to elevate their skill level. This will enable the crafts person to challenge new and more technical projects. 83 mins. Course supply list and supplier links included.
Techniques Of Hand Stitching: Advanced Skills
Take your hand stitching skills to the next level by thinking outside the saddle stitch! In this course you will discover FOUR alternatives to the standard saddle stitch, each with a unique look and added benefits. 1. 'Le point Anglais', or the 'back stitch', as it's confusingly called in English. This presents an unusual look on the rear side (shown) and is traditionally used to stitch delicate linings and thin skins to tougher leathers and hides. On the front it looks like a regular saddle stitch with even higher angles than normal (should your pricking iron allow). 2. The Blind centre stitch is a modified version of the shoemakers 'closed channel seam', but much easier and tougher. It is completely invisible from all sides and provides the option of no visible stitching on your project where/if desired. This creates one of the toughest seams there is due to zero friction on the threads (I have to try this on a knife sheath!). 3. The alternating stitch is a fun option that allows you to play around with more colours in your designs to create something quite unique (see my blog in bio for a colour matching cheat guide!). 4. Lastly there's the wrapped stitch. This provides a unique look whilst reducing tare-out on thin skins and high stress parts by reinforcing the leather beneath it. It also looks like a candy cane with bright colours! Cut a groove before stitching and you're still guaranteed to get angles on your seam too. 41 mins Intermediate
Details Make Perfection: Back Stitching
*FREE COURSE* The first in a series of courses under 15 minutes entitled 'Details Make Perfection' after DaVinci's famous quote. I highlight small areas of improvement that once accumulated, produce a finer grade of leather goods. In this micro course I discuss the technique I use to create neat looking and durable back stitches. You can perform this with any thread, though linen being a denser thread yields the most defined results (cabled poly used in video). Please enjoy this complimentary course. 10 mins. Beginner/ Intermediate.
Details Make Perfection: Corner Stitching
The second instalment of the 'Details make perfection' series, where we focus on one technique that makes a big difference. In this short course I discuss the method I use to execute the perfect corner stitch. In this course you will learn: - How to avoid misaligned stitches. - How to avoid unsightly prick marks. - How to maintain a decorative angle to your stitches into and out of a corner. - Direct comparisons between commonly used methods and the Masterclass method. 13 mins. Beginner/ Intermediate.
The Techniques Of Adhesion
There are so many adhesives available. Here I give you the inside information so you can get the most from this essential workshop item. This tutorial will save you time and effort when deciding which glue to use for a variety of leathercraft applications. You will learn: - Brush techniques, and how to force glue to penetrate for a stronger bond. - Applying glue to larger areas and preventing build-up. - Solvent-based and water-based contact adhesive, why you should own both. - Adhering leather to non-porous materials (metal, plastics and stone etc). - When, why and how to dilute adhesive. - PVA, what type you should use, and tricks on how to get the most from this adhesive. - Gluing leather to interlinings/reinforcements as well as lining materials. - Leather preparation before applying adhesive. - Primary and secondary applications - when and why. 41 mins. Beginner/ Intermediate. Course supply list and links included.
Techniques Of The Blade
Without all doubt, the ability to set the right edge angle, sharpen, polish, and correctly use bladed tools will change your leatherwork forever. The principles used in sharpening woodworking tools, chefs knives and other disciplines do not always carry over well. A different medium requires a different approach. With this tutorial you will understand that difference. You will learn: - Cutting and skiving skills, from stance to wrist movement. Turn leather into butter with the right knowledge. - Choosing the correct angle for the blade. - Understanding grit size and what to use – diamond, sandpaper and stone. - Differences between sharpening, honing and polishing. - Micro serrations. - BONUS - make your own improved strop/buff stick without leather, saving $$$. 58 mins. Beginner/ Intermediate. Course supply list and supplier links included.
Techniques Of The Blade 2: Advanced Sharpening
Sharpening is one of the most basic foundation skills in leathercraft. It precedes many actions we look at as essential such as skiving, splitting, cutting out, using an awl, creating grooves, bevelling edges and punching holes to name just a few. Yet many crafters rely on a decent factory ‘sharp right out of the box’ edge, then try and hold that edge as long as possible through stropping. This reliance on someone else doing the job for you creates a handicap in your work and crafting abilities. Many only give sharpening a go when they damage their edge, or stropping no longer works. This ends today as I show you how simple sharpening can be. With a little practice there is no reason why you can’t get an edge matching or exceeding what you see in this video. Not to mention, less force cutting leather results in less accidents! My goal is to open your eyes to how much easier and enjoyable leathercraft can be with a super sharp blade. ✔️56 mins ✔️All Skill Levels ✔️FREE PDF jig (rigid platform for sharpening your knife) pattern download ✔️Course supply list and supplier links included
Techniques Of The Edge Pt 1
In this video course, I demystify the process of edge finishing using simple techniques and materials you likely already have. Focusing on more traditional methods for a classic look. In this course you will learn: - Edge creasing vegetable tanned leather. - Edge creasing chrome tanned leather. - Creasing around corners. - Molten wax edge creasing. - Edge preparation. - Shaping an edge. - Additives to create a more durable edge. - Edge dyeing. - Burnishing an edge. - Polishing an edge. - Types of wax. 52 mins. Beginner/Intermediate. Course supply list and supplier links included.
Techniques Of The Edge Pt 2: Edge Paint
In this course you will learn the fundamental use of leather edge paints for luxury leather goods in order to create a flawless finish. From handbags to wallets, watch straps to cases, quality edge paints provide a durable modern alternative to burnishing and hot wax finishing (discussed in Techniques Of The Edge Pt1). In this course you will learn: - Tips on buying edge paint. - Tools for effective application. - Laying a good foundation layer. - Creating a rounded edge without beveling. - How to effectively sand the edge. - Troubleshooting mistakes and accidents. - FOUR different ways to create a final finish. - Side by side comparisons. 55 mins. Beginner/ Intermediate. Course supply list and supplier links included.
Details Make Perfection: Awl Sharpening
The third instalment of the 'Details Make Perfection' series. For most, awl use can be a chore and sometimes only used when you have no other option. This produces less than desirable results due to lack of experience and familiarity with the tool when called upon. This is mainly due in part, to the fact that many leathercrafters aren't using a polished and honed awl blade. They may think it is sharp, until they try THIS system! When done correctly, I guarantee you will be pushing your awl through every piece of scrap leather you can find. You will be looking for projects to use an awl and in doing so, open up a new skill and discover a whole new world of leathercraft opportunities. In this course you will learn: - How to profile (shape) an awl blade - How to create a rounded cutting point - Why a rounded point will improve your stitching consistency - How to obtain a mirror polish to glide through leather like butter - How to test for sharpness - How you can make your own custom wet moulded awl strop so that you will never have to sharpen the blade under normal use again - only polish. 25 mins. Beginner/ Intermediate.
Techniques Of The Bell Skiver
The bell skiving machine is a time saving investment that allows you to perform accurate skiving and splitting with consistent results on leather. But many people looking to use these machines can find them extremely confusing. This detailed step-by-step guide is a must have if you are considering buying a skiving machine or even if you own one but want to learn more. In this video course you will learn: - How to set up your skiving machine and fine tune the components. - How to perform the step skive. - How to perform the bevel skive. - How to split leather. - How to skive and split exotic skins. - How to sharpen the bell knife and test sharpness. - How to avoid overheating the blade and softening the steel. - How to install the main components of the feed assembly. - How to adjust the motor tension. - How to choose the right feed roller. and much more. 66 mins. Beginner/ Intermediate. Course supply list and supplier links included.
Hot Foil Techniques
Nothing quite completes the look of a fine quality leather product than a well presented makers mark. Think of the most prestigious and luxurious brands and they all have very distinctive monograms and logos. Your logo is the stamp of approval on your product and a sign that you are proud to stand by your craftsmanship. Not only used for your own logo, hot stamp machines are a perfect way to add that extra special, personal touch for your clients such as messages, names and initials which often gives you a competitive edge over other businesses. This course is an in depth guide to the uses, functions and benefits of a hot stamp machine. In this course you will learn; - How to set up your hot foil machine. - How to select foils, type and dies and which ones to use. - How to stamp on various textures, grains and skins. - Understanding optimal dwell time, temperature and pressure. - How to blind stamp. - Troubleshooting hot foil issues such as blurred edges, partial foiling, peeling, flaking and bubbling PLUS many extra tips and tricks. 33 mins. Intermediate. Course supply list and supplier links included.
Card Slot Card Holder
Learn how to make this compact, slim and stylish card slot card wallet. Make with any exotic skin for impact and added luxury appeal (can be made with any skin). Create and offer wallets as part of your business or perhaps as a personal gift to someone special. Card slots can be used on many other leathercraft projects such as bags, clutches, long wallets, billfolds and many more. In this course you will learn: - How to design and correctly measure a pattern for a card slot cardholder with cash pocket. (This provides a slimmer sleeker alternative to the popular T slot). - Understand how to construct multiple pieces together. - How to cut various measured pieces accurately. - Best glueing practices. - Edge finishing and painting techniques. - Pricking and stitching. 65 mins Beginner/ Intermediate. Course supply list and supplier links included.
Made To Measure Switch Buckle Belt
Learn how to make a luxury belt which is suitable for any occasion and perfect to give as a personal gift or sell as a custom piece to clients. Can be made with any type of leather or skin. In this course you will learn: - How to take specific measurements for yourself or your clients to ensure a perfect fit. - How to correctly cut lengths of exotic skin. - Best glueing practices. - How to perform a skived overlap for crocodile, caiman or alligator skin, which allows you to create long seamless lengths for belts and many other items. - Understand how a Conway (removable belt buckle) works and the benefits of one. - Pricking, stitching and edge finishing techniques unique to belts and long straps. 52 mins Beginner/ Intermediate. Course supply list and supplier links included.
How To Make A Glasses Case
Make your own case for your sunglasses or prescription lenses with this simple project that can be completed in a day. These cases also make excellent gifts for friends and family, or your customers if you want to offer a more luxurious option for their spectacles. Use vegetable tanned leather, or switch it up with reinforced exotic skins for a truly unique and one of a kind product. In this course, you will discover how to: - Install panels and gussets without fuss - Reinforce and shape gussets (you control how they look!) - Create a gusseted internal pocket that expands as needed - Stitch in a hinged frame - you'll love this part! - Create and install a turned edge lining bottom (with a secret message inside..) And so much more! 51 mins Beginner/ Intermediate Course supply list and supplier links included FREE PDF pattern download included
Stingray Skin Card Wallet
Have you always wanted to work with Stingray but don't know how or where to start? In this course I will be showing you how to make a beautifully finished card wallet using stingray. For a long time, working with Stingray has been one of the most requested subjects. How to cut, stitch and edge finish this unusual skin has been a sticking point for many. With enamel and denteen making up the surface, this material can be tough on tools and even tougher on you! Take your leathercraft to the next level & learn the skills to tame this wild & challenging skin. In this course you will learn: - How to make a simple card wallet pattern. - How to cleanly cut Stingray skin. - How to mark and stitch Stingray skin. - How to avoid the pitfalls of edge painting Stingray skin. - How to create a card wallet mould. - How to create reinforced turned edge pockets. 71 mins. Intermediate. Course supply list/ links included.
The Bespoke Leather Apron
The world’s first guide to tailoring a leather apron to your exact specifications using 4 key measurements. Keep yourself protected from oils, dyes, adhesives and paints all whilst looking and feeling like the craftsman you are or wish to be. Much like your craft, it only improves with time and use. In this course you will learn; - How to take specific measurements for yourself or your clients to ensure a perfect fit. - Apron pattern making, marking and cutting. - Understanding how to select the correct leather for an apron. - Best glueing practices. - Pricking and stitching techniques. - How to protect and condition your apron for practical use with a custom wax barrier recipe. 37 mins. Beginner/ Intermediate. Course supply list and supplier links included.
Flightmaster Currency Wallet
The Flightmaster currency wallet is a design that features practicality and style, without compromising either. Suitable for beginners or intermediate students, this project can incorporate many different types of skins from standard to exotic. In this course you will discover how to: - Hand dye leather - Add your own unique patina - Construct fabric linings - Create a simple wristlet - Create micro zip pullers And much more! 56 mins Beginner- Intermediate Course supply list and supplier links included FREE PDF pattern download included
How To Make A Traditional Leather Belt
Discover how to create a unique belt that’s sure to make your work stand out! In this final video course, you will discover how to: - Create a smooth burnished edge that lasts years without maintenance. Have both durability and beauty (needed for your high end belts!). - Stitch both sides and your keeper with one piece of thread, using an easy trick anyone can do. Strong, neat, and no unravelling! - Avoid the biggest mistake people make when sizing their belt (even established makers get this simple technique wrong!). - Find out how you can hand skive the easy way, even if you don’t own a splitter. - Tips on avoiding the leather belt ‘squeak’ whilst perfectly sizing your keeper. - How to correctly use a strap cutter, so you can get repeatable, accurate cuts every time. And so much more! 101 mins Intermediate/ Advanced Course supply list and supplier links included Free PDF pattern download included
Details Make Perfection: Clam Finishing
For some, finishing a set of saddlers clams may be putting scrap leather between the jaws to protect their work. But then there are people like us who understand that taking pride in your work is a way in which we move towards mastering this amazing craft. Show off your skills and personality, whether on social media, events, craft fairs or on your own website. Make a great first impression about you and your craft. This course will teach you the following skills: - Working with wood and leather - Creating a patina on leather with dyes (no airbrush needed!) - What thickness of leather to use - Gold gilded crease lines - Using hidden magnets under leather and which ones to use ..and more. 16 mins Beginner/ Intermediate.
Details Make Perfection: Trunk Tool Wall
Learn how to make a vintage trunk inspired tool wall with simple, easy to obtain materials. All measurements included. Store your leathercraft tools in style and safety with this vintage inspired tool rack. Complete with resin coated canvas just like on the original trunks! Get your hammers ready, this is going to be fun! 26mins Total project cost: £20-30. Total time: 4-5hrs (not including drying times). Skill level: basic to moderate construction ability.
How To Make A Leather Strop
This video course was originally filmed for YouTube. Due to popular demand from students, I have also added to the Masterclass. 32 mins Beginner/ Intermediate Course supply list and supplier links included FREE PDF pattern download included
The Turenne Luxury Handbag Pt 1/5
Create your very own stunning handbag with this easy to follow video course series. Download the FREE PDF pattern and follow me as I guide you through the entire process, step by step. Part one of this tutorial will be showing you how to use the pattern download to easily cut out all parts of this luxury handbag. The star of the show is the luxurious ostrich skin. However, this pattern has the flexibility to work with ANY vegetable tanned leather -OR- chrome tanned leather. So you can choose what you like best! This means you probably have the right leather already. This handbag design has been created specifically for YOU! It is not a copy or 'homage' to anything else, but completely unique. And yes members, you may sell this handbag for profit! You will discover: - How you choose the right skins. - How to reinforce your handbag for the correct structure. - How to simply prepare ostrich skin prior to using it. - How to cut out your parts from the INCLUDED pattern download. - How to make the 'pips' or pearls on the surface sparkle like stars to set your work apart (option unique to this course). - How to reinforce your rolled handles to prevent unwanted creasing and create smooth handles with one SIMPLE TRICK. - How you can easily split ostrich skin without any tools. ...and many more techniques! 76mins Intermediate/ Advanced Course supply list and supplier links included. Free PDF pattern download included (Pt1)
The Turenne Luxury Handbag Pt 2/5
Join me for part 2 of the Turenne handbag build where we focus on stitching in your panels onto the base, edge finishing techniques, and how to correctly prepare your zip for installation. Also, discover a NEW edge finishing technique! It isn't a burnished edge, it isn't edge paint, it isn't even a turned edge or anything similar! So what is it? By modifying a forgotten edge finishing secret from a century ago, you will benefit from the natural look of a burnished edge, with the flexibility of edge paint and the durability of a turned edge - even if you use pure chrome tanned leather! In this course you will learn: - Accurately attaching your panels to the base for flawless symmetry. - Correct zip finishing guide (differs from previous courses) to take the confusion out of installing. your zips. - How to reinforce main seams and what to use for luxury that lasts. - How to deal with ugly exposed zip tape to give your bag the look of impeccable craftsmanship. And much more! 90 mins Intermediate/ Advanced Course supply list and supplier links included. Free PDF pattern download included (Pt1)
The Turenne Luxury Handbag Pt 3/5
Join me in part 3 of the luxury handbag build along where we will focus on the creation and installation of our beautiful rolled handles! To get started, simply download the FREE PDF pattern from the first course and follow me as I guide you through the entire process. The star of the show is the luxurious ostrich skin. However, this pattern has the flexibility to work with ANY vegetable tanned leather -OR- chrome tanned leather. So you can choose what you like best! This means you probably have the right leather already. This handbag design has been created specifically for YOU! It is not a copy or 'homage' to anything else, but completely unique. And yes members, you may sell this handbag for profit! 50mins Intermediate/ Advanced Course supply list and supplier links included. Free PDF pattern download included (Pt1)