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Leathercraft Techniques

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AdriAdri

Corner Stitching

Hey guys!


I've been trying to master the corner stitching technique that Philip has taught in the course. It looks great for that specific corner, but when continuing the pricking to the other side, I find myself with weird spacing where the holes either get too close or too far from the other corner.


A potential fix I've tried is starting from both corners with the round awl technique then meeting at the center, but it still ends up with awkward spacing and the pricking holes aren't aligned.


Another potential fix i've tried is to mark them lightly before hammering it down, but I can't seem to find the right distance with this.


Hoping to get some insights for how you guys do this, thank you!!



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AdriAdri

Edge Painting Bubbles Fix

Hi guys! Just had my first go at edge painting, I'm using Wuta edge paint and did 3 layers along with the alcohol technique. After rubbing it with the alcohol though, some holes appeared which I'm assuming were bubbles I missed when edge painting it?


So my question is - if this happens, is there a way to save it?



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alain
Aug 12

Also, I never heard of flaming the paint. I supose this is to make it dry faster? If so it is best to let it dry by itself. If speeding the process is necessary, put it in front of a small air blower, or a heater set at a low temperature. A direct flame is bound to create problems, not only bubbles but potentially it can burn the leather or the thread.

Envelope Document Folder

In this course Phil edge creases the bottom flap after edge painting and attaching the sides with glue. I'm wondering if the edge creasing could have been done before the edge painting and attaching the sides?


I use a fileteuse edge creaser which is not as accommodating as Phil's manually heated/controlled creaser.

Thanks.

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Yes, you could run the risk of marking the edge paint if using a fileteuse rather than an adjustable creaser.


Absolutely, you can crease the edge ahead of time before edge painting and sticking down.

Edited
alancranbury+lmcalancranbury+lmc
alancranbury+lmc

Dyeing and Finishing Veg-Tan Leather

I have some 1.5mm veg tan that I'm hoping to dye and use for the Zip Wallet. I have a couple questions about the process: - I was planning on cutting the rough pieces, then dyeing, then cutting exactly to the templates. I worry that the dye could shrink/warp the leather, I just want to confirm that this the best order of operations.

- I'm using Fiebings Leather Dye in Yellow, which is an alcohol based dye. The manufacturer recommends using their Resolene product as a finish, but I think the acrylic might have a poorer hand feel than a wax/oil. I tried using Fiebings Atom Wax, but it significantly darkened the colour to more of a brown. I'm thinking of either trying a Carnauba wax, the Resolene acrylic, or just ordering a different pre-coloured leather (like the Alran Sully I'm using for the interior). What would you recommend?

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I think the Sully would look great for that, and would definitely be way easier to deal with than having to dye and finish everything else. Buttero comes in a nice yellow though if you decide to go with a pre-colored veg tan and some suppliers also have Buttero Hatch in yellow as well which is kind of like a saffiano print, it's very nice. Plus with the pre-finished leathers you don't have to worry about having to finish them afterwards and potentially still having dye rub off at some point. Although with the yellow you would still have to test different conditioners to see which one darkens it the least amount.

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