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Making a Padfolio
Hi all,
I got a request for some Padfolios.
They should be made in soft calf leather.
to get the front and back it needs som stiffening material, would you use cardboard or something else?
/Vagn
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This post is from a suggested group
Hi all,
I got a request for some Padfolios.
They should be made in soft calf leather.
to get the front and back it needs som stiffening material, would you use cardboard or something else?
/Vagn
This post is from a suggested group
Hi, folks!
I've been practicing leather craft for about 15 years now. And though I teach leather craft, I endeavor to always take the opportunity to learn something more - perhaps a novel way of finishing edges, or a better way to sharpen a skiving knife, or thread a needle - there's a lot of oars in that boat!
In any event, I look forward to taking part in the course.
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I am just learning how to stitch and would love some feedback. I have done about 45 of these strips and am staring to feel like I am get the hang of it. The stitching on the flesh side lacks the uniformity I would like. Is there anything I can do when adding the cast to the saddle stitch to get a more consistent angle on the back side?
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I came across this cigar case today and noticed it had a raised seam on the inside part of the case. A case with out the raised seam would seem to be more eligant. Is that a purely astetic choice? Or is it too hard to do a butt stitch like in the cigar case video corse in a large scale production setting?
https://kirbyallison.com/products/bosquet-grained-black-leather-cigar-case-2-cigars
Hi John. This is a traditional way of making a cigar case. A butt stitch could be used, but that would prevent makers from machine stitching the outside seams. Butt stitching would require a more skilled workforce, and more time, both increasing expenses.
I believe the style you linked is pre-stitched, then put onto a mould for final shaping.
If you are hand stitching cigar cases, you have the luxury of doing what you want!
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Hi all,
I am brand new to leather working and am excited to learn a new hobby.
Great to hear John, thanks for joining us! How long have you been involved in leatherwork, and what kind of things do you like to make?
Philip
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Here are 2 belts i was commissioned to make.
The one is geometric basket weave style with black boarders and white thread for a striking contrast. Finished with brass buckle and handmade conchos i constructed and silversmithed from coins from the uk.
Second belt is another commissioned piece for a client who is an Everton football club fan who wanted the royal blue and white incorporated into the design along with his Kids initials and his. Finished with Stainless steel hardware and again 2 conchos i silversmithed from Everton Commemorative Coins.
Wow, those are truly custom pieces! Really nice work. The conchos made from coins are a really cool idea.
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Hello I would be really grateful for some help from anyone on here who makes watch strap please. I am trying to design my own templates for watch straps and I am struggling as how get an accurate sizing guide.
I have looked at a few other makers sites to view their sizing guides and to see how they have come up with the sizes of the straps from that of a wrist measurement but I cant quite seem to work out how this is done.
For this example I am going to use a wrist measurement 17.5 cm which in the extract of one particular makers size guide would indicate that the wrist measure is comfortably in the size range for a 115/75 strap and a lug to lug measurement of 40 mm.
Wrist Size Strap Size
(16.5 - 18.5 cm) Regular length (115 - 75) when suitable with watch…
115-75 is an industry norm and will fit a range of wrist sizes and watch cases. It's common that correct fit will not be the middle hole in the adjustment range. This should fit a 17.5cm wrist however.
With a number of variables at play, the only real way to find out which hole a 17.5cm wrist fits (and adjust pattern if needed) is to make a rough prototype and find out. Even leather stiffness can change which sizing hole you need.
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Hi everyone,
A friend of mine is getting married, and he has decided to gift a pair of trouser suspenders (or braces, for my friends in the UK) to each of his groomsmen. The're made mainly of fabric, but have a small leather patch. (Picture attached.)
He has already purchased them, and he has asked me if I could emboss a set of initials onto each of them. (To personalize them for each of his groomsmen.)
I have a stamping machine - from Dream Factory - that I often use, and which I've found to be reliable. Here's the problem: The surface that needs to be stamped is quite uneven. I thought about padding the uneven sections, so as to create a relatively flat and even surface, but it's quite risky and I don't want to destroy too many pairs with failed attempts.
Has anyone encountered this (or something similar)…
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Hey everyone.
As you may have noticed, the forum looks a little different now.
Our website providers WIX have just put out a major update to the forum app. This wasn't a voluntary update by me, the old forum app has now been discontinued.
While it may look quite different, the updates should improve functionality, such as navigation, uploading media and spam protection.
Obviously, as with any new software, there may be glitches here and there. So feel free to reach out to me with any issues or suggestions you may have. philip@leathercraftmasterclass.com
Also, all the posts and comments from the old forum have been transferred over to the new one, so you can still access historical content.
Hi Vagn.
Much like in wallet making, I'm not a big believer in having the product stiff without contents, because very few people walk around with nothing in it.
People will use a padfolio with a notepad, pens, cards, notes, possibly a tablet already in it, and this creates most of its structure.
However, if by soft calf you are referring to something you could use in upholstery or a leather jacket, that indeed will require some stiffening.
PVA soaked canvas
Cellulose fiberboard (Texon)
Oil resistant gasket paper (Flexoid)
Thin firm veg-tan leather
Bonded leatherboard (Salpa etc)
Most on the above list will stiffen, but will remain flexible if a corner is bent too far unlike cardboard. Cardboard can be used, though it can degrade if moisture gets in and it can also delaminate when exposed to opposing forces or continued flex.
If you want something quick and easy to get, Flexoid is underrated for reinforcement purposes. And I kind of like the smell. Try a sample first in the 0.5 - 0.8mm range.