Phenomenal work! That's a really beautiful case. I love that you used multiple courses to create something completely unique to you. It really does look like a tool box, just a lot more elevated.

Thank you for sharing that with us!

Welcome Zach. It's great to have you here, thank you for the introduction and the kind words.

Philip

Beautiful work! I've never seen salmon skin used as a lining before, I have to say it's really cool. Really nice work.

Did you do a direct glue-in with the lining, or just stitched in along the edges?

Hi Remco, welcome in to the forum! I appreciate you taking the time to introduce yourself to us all. I look forward to welcoming you to the Masterclass when you feel ready.

Philip

Hey Liam. You can absolutely perform a glue-in on the salmon skin for a lining. However, the pocket design from the course won't do well with a glue-in lining, and will eventually start pulling the lining away from the exterior.

If you want to keep the salmon skin glued/ stitched only on the edges, then you could always glue the flesh side to a thin piece of fabric (rubber based glue) for more support, before cutting to size. Something like 0.1-0.2mm polyester or cotton. Then you can use the pocket design from the course and keep durability.

Hi Liam, welcome to the forum. Thank you for sharing your story with us here. It looks like the tremor hasn't stopped you creating something beautiful! The Lizzie crossbody is coming along nicely, and we look forward to seeing it completed when you're ready.

Philip

Nice work Jeffrey, I love the colour! The Picotin is a nice relaxed design.

Hi Gavin. For handmade belts, the most popular filler for a raised centre section is going to be a strip of vegetable tanned leather, and some kind of synthetic non-stretch fabric backing. On very cheap belts you may see cardboard or rubber, but I wouldn't recommend it for durability reasons. Some also use bonded leatherboard, which can cut costs if bought in bulk.

Unfortunately it is difficult to match panel/gussets to your pattern in real life unless you stick to a specific type of leather and thickness that works with that particular pattern. You may have it mathematically correct, however, if you change the thickness of the leather, use leather that is softer or more firm, or you stretch/compress the leather more around the corners, your dimensions can be wildly off, even on a small bag.

Trial and error using similar materials to make prototypes works well, then you can transfer these measurements onto a pattern.