Leathercraft Techniques

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Watch Straps

Hello I would be really grateful for some help from anyone on here who makes watch strap please. I am trying to design my own templates for watch straps and I am struggling as how get an accurate sizing guide.

I have looked at a few other makers sites to view their sizing guides and to see how they have come up with the sizes of the straps from that of a wrist measurement but I cant quite seem to work out how this is done.

For this example I am going to use a wrist measurement 17.5 cm which in the extract of one particular makers size guide would indicate that the wrist measure is comfortably in the size range for a 115/75 strap and a lug to lug measurement of 40 mm.

Wrist Size Strap Size

(16.5 - 18.5 cm) Regular length (115 - 75) when suitable with watch…

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Leathercraft Masterclass

Nov 18

115-75 is an industry norm and will fit a range of wrist sizes and watch cases. It's common that correct fit will not be the middle hole in the adjustment range. This should fit a 17.5cm wrist however.

With a number of variables at play, the only real way to find out which hole a 17.5cm wrist fits (and adjust pattern if needed) is to make a rough prototype and find out. Even leather stiffness can change which sizing hole you need.

Clement

July 8, 2025

Master the edge

Hello leather masters, I have two questions about better edge finishing. The first issue is making an edge on soft leather where two layers that are not perfectly aligned come together. As an example, you can see in the picture below that a piece of soft leather was cut using a cardboard template.

The leather is supposed to be folded and sewn along the edges, with a zipper in the middle. Since the rounded edges were made with a round knife, they are not completely straight (picture below).

How do you best approach such details? Since the leather is too thin, sandpaper cannot be used. Is it best to cut the edge after the layers are sewn, or is there a better trick?

For example, how do you suggest finishing an edge like this where the leather is very thin, is it best to leave it raw, paint it, or is it…

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Clement

Jul 26

Thank you Phil! Yes, scissors would be better for this case (thin leather). Or rather, cutting edges after sewing. I will try with PVA glue and water-based contact+sanding (as @Feather suggested). Another question about the edge. In the picture below you can see that there is a small notch on the edge. Will the paint on the edge repair this, or is there a better approach recommended to solve it (so that it doesn't lead to the edge tearing)?

Clement

June 10, 2025

Sewing - alignment problem

Hi, I have a problem with my stitches. The problem is that the stitches are not aligned nicely, but are dancing (a little up, a little down). For example, I use the following pricking iron:

Hexagon pricking iron
Pricing iron tooth size 2mm
Distance between prickin iron tooths 3mm

I used thread of thickness 0.45mm.

The last product I had a problem with was a wallet, about 4mm thick.

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Clement

Jun 27

Thank you ffzanchetta. Yes, I used a creasing tool but I agree that the line probably wasn't the straightest. But the idea with the tape is a very good one. I agree with second comment. I guess it's too thick. Edges are thiner because of sewing. Like I answer on Philip comment: I realized that it matters which side I finish first. So if I tighten the seam completely on the nice side of the leather and only then on the ugly side, the pattern is even. > it may be a solution for thin or harder leather, but not thick and soft. Your comment is very relevant and hopeful - thank you. Of course, it takes a lot of practice.