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Curved edge won't sit flush

Hi guys! I was hoping that you can all help me troubleshoot this issue.


I'm making a curved cut edge bag and I can't get the edges to sit flush to each other on the curved portion. The front and back flaps curve over the gusset like this:


The seam allowance for both is 1/8". The thickness is 2.5mm on this first attempt:

As you can see, the edge of the panel pulls away from the gusset and you can see the flesh side peeking.


I then skived both the seam allowances on the panels and gusset down to 1.5mm, which made it a bit better, but it's still not good enough:


Both the panels and gussets have abrasions where the seam allowances overlap to help the adhesive stick better. (I have tried saregum, contact cement, and double sided tape separately, and they all end up with the same result of not sitting flush.)


Any ideas? I'm hesitant to lower the seam allowance of at least the panel to something smaller than 1/8" because it won't be as strong structurally, but I'm wondering if that is my only option.


Thank you in advance for your time and help!

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hanabarnes
25 mag 2019

Hey Maru,


I thought that, but the seam allowance would worry me. If I cut off 1-1.5mm, that would only leave me with 1.5-2mm from the edge.


I found this online: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JBBOtpTkZqY&t=495s


I printed out the pattern and it looks like the seam allowance for the body panel is 3mm (1/8") and the gusset is 5mm. I might try adjusting my gusset seam allowance and making it a bit bigger. My design has a more acute angle, so I'm wondering if that is also an issue...

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