Cost. You can make more bags with a given amount of leather if you make them from separate parts rather than whole cuts. There may be other factors on occasion, but cost is the main reason.

Lol, I didn't even notice that! 😂 Great catch

Thank you, that's wonderful to know! I'm glad you've found the videos so useful. Nothing beats having freshly sharpened tools.

Thank you for taking the time to write that Spence, it's much appreciated. I'm so glad that you're benefiting from the videos!

Thanks Stephen. For sure it would make a great pen case. Everything is built from the tubes out, so as long as the dowels are larger than the widest point of your wides pen, it should turn out great.

Yeah, count me in the wabi sabi camp. Not for my craftsmanship, just the natural materials such as leather, thread and fabrics.

I wouldn't say as this is a public forum. You never know with some companies. If certain information came to light, their business would for sure take a hit.

Yeah I was going to say something similar. Find suspenders with decent hardware and see if there is a cheaper fabric option using the same hardware to harvest.

832 can get a little weak for some projects but it's fine for small leather goods. I always recommend a test seam on scrap leather you'll be using before each project. One seam of a given thread size can look perfect on one leather, and too big or small on another. The only way to find out is to test. Small threads can start to get lost on soft skins as they sink in easily. chrome tanned leather being an example. I'd question whether certain Chinese alternatives are even real flax linen, as it's normal for linen to have 'nodes' or inconsistencies in thickness. I actually like this handmade look, as sewing machines struggle with the nodes. I don't want my thread perfectly uniform in the same way I don't want my leather perfectly uniform, I celebrate a slight natural variation in texture and look. Of course, it's very personal and highly subjective. *Theory alert* Bonded cotton is widely available in the industry for very low cost and is often used on leather goods to be sewn by machine in factories. It looks natural like linen, but it's completely uniform. The cotton fibres by themselves are short and weak, so they have to be bonded with an adhesive (which lasts who knows how long). I've often wondered if a certain chinese company has had the brilliant idea to make a huge profit margin by using clever marketing and cheaper materials. Only an analysis would prove that however. I can't see how one company has suddenly found a way to make flax fibres completely uniform where the Irish, British, French and Germans with centuries long experience producing it, cannot. I once did a test of this Chinese thread by dissolving the bonding agent and untwisting. The individual fibres were short, consistent with cotton lengths.

I'd have to check again but I'm sure my 632 spools are below .5mm. somewhere nearer 0.45. I think 632 works well with 2.7mm irons. Here is a pic from the latest cigar case tutorial showing 632 with 11spi or 2.3mm. It's a butt stitch however, as there were no saddle stitches within the design: This watch strap features 0.3mm silver silk thread with a 2.7mm stitch spacing. The heavy texture of the alligator doesn't allow for the most consistent stitch, but you get the idea.

Hey Sappy, welcome to the forum! We're glad you joined us. I'm sure you'll be making beautiful bags for the wife in no time. Philip

I use an orbital sander with 120 grit. Sand some scrap wood first to make sure any lose abrasive particles get knocked off a fresh abrasive pad. Then thoroughly brush the acetal sheet after sanding to make sure there are no abrasive bits left that will blunt a blade. Do this outside and wear suitable protection such as a mask and safety glasses. I finish cleaning with some mineral spirits on a rag. I like mine with a slight rough finish. This grips the flesh side of leather, yet has no extra drag for the blade. Win. I can't imagine this can be done by hand, acetal is tough with a capital T.

It may have something to do with the upper top stop not having a one tooth gap for the last tooth on the opposite side. This may cause tension that prevents easy opening. Try carefully removing the upper top stop with a pair of wire cutters, then replace with a new one leaving a slight gap. I can't see any other issues in the image.

Hi David. In one of the images below you show the knives being held with the blade edge perpendicular to the direction you will be sharpening. In this position, any pressure on the handle is going to rock the knife back and forth and round the edge as you sharpen. If you turn the edge 45 degrees or more to the direction of sharpening, you create a much more stable platform. Use medium pressure with the fingers supporting the back of the blade, and use the other hand to cradle the handle and support the movement. Try not to initiate the movement with the handle alone. Here's a screenshot from the video course 'Techniques of the Blade'.

Welcome Andrew! Thanks for saying hello, please enjoy the Forum.

Nice job! Shoemaking is something I've never tried before. Great sanding work.

Hi Les! Welcome to the forum and thank you for the introduction. It's great to have you here, I hope you find it useful.

Hi AJ, Thank you for the introduction! That's really great to hear. I hope you enjoy the courses. Philip

Hi Spence! Welcome to the forum and thank you for the introduction. I hope you enjoy the forum and the courses. Philip

Nah, if I were to buy one I'd probably keep the leather strap stock. I'd appreciate the authenticity over the precision. I might finish the edges however.