I know I've posted a few of these Hermès videos in the past, but the big H is brilliant at sharing shenannigans from within their workshop. I found this one interesting, I hope you do too. I really like the tool wall at 5:52. Someone is very organised!

I found this article completely by accident today while looking for a bag design that I believe Hermès copied from Louis Vuitton. Ironic given the nature of this post (More information about that coming in the April podcast available HERE) Link to the article (or click the image): https://www.laconceria.it/en/counterfeiting/in-seoul-they-teach-how-to-make-a-kelly-hermes-loses-patience/ The leathercraft teaching business in question is Franc Atelier from Korea. Unfortunately I can't seem to find a website or active social media account, so I assume their business is over. There aren't a lot of details regarding how this came about, whether a cease and desist warning was given, or if Hermès took the company straight to court in Korea. On the one hand I understand Hermès and their reasons for seeking compensation from a business teaching students how to fake their bags. However I think 'forcing a large payment for damages' may be a little heavy handed for a (I presume) small business. I hope it was at least a limited company! I think culturally, 'homage' bags are less frowned upon in East Asia vs most western countries based on what I have seen online, YouTube and social media etc. It doesn't seem to be as big of a deal. Hermès obviously see things differently. But don't misunderstand me, I don't think it's wrong for someone to make a big brand's bag design if they are creating it for themselves and adding their own logo, or not logo at all. However, profiting from the creation of obvious fakes without permission, or at least changing the design in some way is where I personally draw the line. What are your personal thoughts on this? Comment below.

An interesting look at the making of a Gucci Noveau Fringe bag.

An interesting interview with a former Hermes artisan. She shares her thoughts on certain bags, talks about her training and what leathers she likes to work with. The interview may not be for everyone, but it's a rare insight not seen very often. There are 3 parts with the last video being a quiz. Enjoy.

I found this rather interesting video showing new recruits being trained as Hermes artisans. I really can't imagine any other brand doing anything quite like this. Enjoy.

An interesting restoration job on an $800 Vuitton wallet. Question though, do you think it was worth $800??

I was sent this Vanity Fair article by one of our forum members Stephen. It's a great read about the Hermes workshop, the training artisans have to complete and the iconic bags they make. What do you think about the introduction of mycelium 'leather' into their products? I'd be interested to hear your thoughts.

What do you guys think? I found these on aliexpress today lol, I had to post them! They have to be the most over the top irons I have ever seen! I'm sure they work just fine and would no doubt please many crafters, but they're pretty extreme. For all those interested ^^^

I came across this video today showcasing some of the manufacturing processes at Perrin in France. I'm trying to understand what the apparatus the lady is using at 0:19. It's not fixed in a particular position as it can move and rotate. I'm wondering if it's designed after staff complained of carpal tunnel syndrome from using the creaser all day in the same way. Also interesting to note at 0:28 is the use of what looks to be 3mm stainless steel threaded rod (M3) to apply edge paint. I imagine the threads are a great way of storing a reservoir of paint. I'll have to try that! You can always tell a factory in France when the women working there have fancy nails 🤣🤣🤣

I've often wondered if leathercraft as a whole has improved or regressed. There are probably a lot of thoughts on this and you are welcome to give your opinions below. But time and time again I see beautiful examples of fine leather goods made in the early 1900's that blow my mind. Not just the leather and craftsmanship, but the detail in the hardware too. As a maker I love analysing some of these pieces and breaking down the steps in my mind if I had to recreate it. What I find with many luxury trunks, cases, top frame bags and jewellery boxes is an incredible amount of thought and design that I rarely see in 2020. This may be a change in consumer tastes, lifestyle and labour costs, but one can't ignore some of the exquisite mastery displayed by many artisanal brands that are mostly long gone. Some examples I found today: And probably my favourite by Hermes:

Chances are, you have never heard of Tanner Krolle. They are a small leather goods business that started in 1856 specialising in discreet bespoke leather goods for discerning clients. Their clientele span multiple royal families to the who's who of A list celebrities. A few years back they fell off the face of the earth and nobody knew where they had gone. Their website had a home page with a contact form, but that was it. Not officially taking orders, but not closed for business either. Recently someone has re-launched the brand with full force, offering a number of classically designed, yet understated leather bags and cases. What's odd though is the lack of 'Made In England' pride that they were known for. Nowhere does it state that their products are British made. The silence is deafening. Similarly, Smythson of London no longer rely on the UK Simpson factory (now dissolved) to produce their goods, but rather a factory in Spain according a friend of mine who was a craftsman there. I wouldn't be surprised if that's where this pillar of British craftsmanship is now produced as well. Their designs are nice, but for a similar price the English made Dunhill 'Duke' range is simply unbeatable. I've always been a huge fan of Tanner Krolle, and I had the privilege of repairing 2 or 3 pieces of their luggage over the years. I can attest to the quality of their former work. But it's obvious that someone has bought the rights to the TK name, found an offshore factory willing to produce to their designs, then proceeded to leverage that sweet non-tangible asset we call heritage. What do you think of their range? https://www.instagram.com/tannerkrolle/ https://www.tannerkrolle.com/

These English saddle makers are some of the fastest workers I've seen in any trade! It's amazing to see how quick and efficiently they perform:

Hermes has come out with a few new ideas in 2020 so far. They are still utilising recognisable designs, but with a bit more creativity. I like this combination of leather and material, with strong references towards horse bridles and their saddlery past. A canvas Birkin with leather bound edges. I like how they have attempted to make a more practical version that even includes a coffee cup holder! I actually think this would be a popular choice for men in a larger size and masculine colours. A reimagined version of their famous Bolide bag. This time with a striking panel of various shapes, colours and designs in calf skin. Very cool. Full article: https://www.bangkokpost.com/life/social-and-lifestyle/1887495/expect-the-unexpected-from-herm%c3%a8s#cxrecs_s

The 'Petite Malle' (small trunk) by Louis Vuitton has got to be one of my favourite bags by LV. Designed by Nicolas Ghesquière, this mini trunk is complex to build and fabulously expensive. They have used their 160+ years of trunk making experience into crafting a small clutch case - with a few modern advancements. I want to share with you some of the techniques that I have observed. Hopefully this will bring about some new ideas for designs and inspire you to try some of these out on your own projects. But first, the case: Overall dimensions are 4.4″ L x 7.9″ W x 2.2″ D The construction of this bag starts with a wooden base or 'carcass' with which the exterior leather, coated canvas or exotic skin is glued on to. Here you can see the wooden carcass frame which will be wrapped in LV's famous monogram coated canvas. It appears that the exterior parts are stitched together prior to wrapping and riveting. If you look closely to the edges of the plywood frame (above image), you can see scorch marks from being laser cut. The plywood appears to be around 3-4mm, so this makes a lot of sense and ensures accuracy while saving time. In the example above, the craftsman is wrapping the wooden frame with what appears to be alligator skin. The holes going through the skin and wooden carcass will be for rivets and strap attachments. This appears to be the smallest 'Petite Malle' which opens from the top compared to the later larger size that opens down the centre (seen below). A birds eye view of all the ingredients that go into this micro bag. Much like it's bigger trunk brother, the Petite Malle has almost as many parts, all requiring hand assembly. This is one of the reasons for the high price. You can see the inner lining with it's criss-cross pattern reminiscent of LV's quilted trunk lid interiors, known as malletage. (Side note, looks like LV are using Eprose tools now). Even the closures are a micro version of a full size trunk. A craftsman secures the alligator wrap by gluing in a turnover inside the case. Note that there appears to be a beige coloured cellulose board placed inside the case (difficult to see because it looks like wood). I am assuming that this is to fill the distance between the wooden carcass and the tops of each rivet/screw. This will presumably ensure full glue contact for the lining without seeing any bumps from the screw heads. And finally, the dust bag it comes in: Much like the luggage of old, this mini trunk has it's own canvas protection bag complete with leather corner protectors. This used to be standard issue with luxury luggage when travelling by car/boat/train/plane as you wouldn't want to scratch your priceless cases now would you? I love how Vuitton has included this rather nostalgic nod to it's past and incorporated it into a dust bag. I hope this has given you some ideas or at least provided some food for thought. Enjoy the weekend and stay safe!