Recently, I've been pouring more an inordinate amount of thinner into a "Minor" glue pot. Clearly, its not as sealed as I'd like it to be so I checked the lid and all good but no good. I found little cracks developing on the underside and that was the culprit. Fair enough, a pot made on a Monday, I thought. Got another one, same thing happened a few months in. I have two more pots in boxes, one is massive the other what I use but I'm not going to. Anyone else experience the same? They're Italian. I had high expectations (given it wasn't a Fiat)

Hello Folks, I'm looking to identify these canvas types currently on sale from Made on Jupiter in NYC. They're a nice crowd to deal with however their prices are just a little too high for my liking. If anyone can identify this material and where they've seen it available, I'll put you on my Christmas card list. The first is an internal type, off-white on one side and brown on the other. The other is an external canvas we've all seen before on Chanel and Dior bags etc. It's ivory in colour and is pretty hefty at .75mm thick. Suggestions are especially welcome including good alternatives. Many thanks in advance, Stephen

APLF I don’t know what it means, I can only assume the “L” means leather. And that was the name of the game at the end of March last in Dubai where I spent 2 of the 3 days it was hosted getting lost amongst the finest leather manufacturers in the world. Traditionally hosted in Hong Kong, APLF went to Dubai in 2022 after a 2 year hiatus thanks to the coronavirus. Looking ahead, it’s earmarked for a return to HK in 2023 so Dubai was just a fluke. And one that served me as I often don’t get the time to travel to Milan or Paris when these things are hosted so it was a rare treat. Short story long, it didn’t suit many of the distributors and producers I met. They all had much the same thing to say and that was that their core market was China and that the Middle East on this occasion allowed them to finally get out and show their wares. Stretched across 5 halls at the World Trade Centre, Dubai, you could get the smell of the leather as soon as you got out of the car. No kidding. It only grew as one entered the building main and long before you reached the badge counter. All open plan, the largest hall was occupied by mainly Pakistani and Indian producers of ready made leather goods. Jackets, satchels, purses, wallets - the usual suspects. About a dozen Italian stands were there with exemplary shoes and small leather goods. Seemingly this hall was catering for that sort of market. Living in the Middle East for a decade, it was a rare joy to see the Italian ladies from all the booths gather for coffee and (customarily) loud conversation complete with laughter, authentic hand gestures and explicit language. If any Italians are reading this, please, NEVER change! Halls 1-4 were it was all happening. Generally broken down by country, the exhibition hosted a large Brazilian contingent, some Germans, more Indian and Pakistani tanneries, a nice bunch of Italian tanneries and machine manufacturers. There were a few South African (ostrich) companies and only a handful of British ones, Belgians and Singaporean. I was a bit disappointed with the British showing as there was very little for a country with such a fine leather producing pedigree. The jewel in the crown, in my opinion were the French. I’ve spent quite a lot of time in France over the past 25 years of my working life and, love them or hate them, they occupy a very special place in my heart. Unabashedly nationalist and traditionalist, never ones to answer an email or return a call, the laid back, supremely artisan and effortlessly stylish company representatives were so friendly and inviting, they almost seemed like old friends. Alran, Remy Carriat and Tanneries Roux were just three of the names and where I spend a disproportional amount of time. I was given a breakdown of the next season's colours and how they were chosen. The qualities were exquisite. The feel, texture and scent would have you reach for your wallet there and then. Embarrassed, I asked if they were interested in small fry single artisans like me (and likely most of you reading this) and without reservation, they said "yes, of course". Long story short, whereas any tannery prefers a single buyer of hundreds of hides, there is always some left over, some that don't make the grade, orders falling through or simply a stock catalogue on hand. It is from stock that small guys like us can tap from. Naturally, if a custom colour is desired, it can be done but MOQ applies and other costs. Contacting them is (apparently) as simple as an email AND a follow up one or phone call. Keep it as simple as you can - who you are, types, colours, features and quantities, where you are and how you want to pay. That's it. The more specific you are, the better the service. This is what I was told by each company rep. I've yet to put it to the test but the proof is in the pudding. Would I go again? Absolutely! however it's slated to be hosted back in Hong Kong next year but if you have a glut of air miles or some urge to see the orient, it'd be the perfect excuse. Having said that, it's likely you'll find much the same in Lineapple in Milan (never been) so that's probably a more viable option for Europeans amongst us. I really hope this has been informative and lets you know what it was all about for those that thought about attending in Dubai. Enjoy! Stephen

Hello Leathercraft Masterclassers, I’m looking for a heads up on the below brass hardware. One is a D-ring with an angled flat and the other is a ornate hook attached by rivets. I’d prefer to attach by screws, personally. I don’t mind rivets, but I’m always petrified that I’ll make a balls of it. Anyhow, it’s a Sam Browne belt in the making (prototype) and this hardware isn’t available from Buckleguy. The ones in the pictures we’re ripped off a belt from Pakistan so I might start looking there. Wish me luck with that. Thanks I’m advance!

Needles. We all use them, but I have to confess to having not the slightest clue about them. The thread fits, usually. They’re pointy and long and stiff enough to make their way through the awl hole. So that’s it right? Wrong. I‘ve got John James mostly plus a bunch of Chinese ones thrown in free with the odd (crap) tool I’ve bought. Can anyone shine any light on this? Is ignorance bliss? What am I missing here? Cheers 👍🏿

Who knew there was a secret code among hotel, travel & tourism staff going back at least 100 years? I didn‘t. I work in this industry and finding myself with plenty of time on my hands these days, I was leafing through LV’s 100 Greatest Trunks and happened upon this quirky code bellhops, doormen, maids, loaders etc. had that was universally understood worldwide regarding the upper classes proclivities - whether they were big tippers, ignorant, demanding or occasionally flung telephones at people’s heads. I clarified this with an associate who deals with the private jet set in the Middle East and he confirmed that staff DO talk. So, if you ever find yourself in the ”Three Comma Club”, yes, we are talking about you behind your back. Enjoy!

Hello Leathercraft Masterclassers, I’m looking for input on how to develop a nice patina using whatever method works well, probably some dye work and polish. The brand, Berluti is known for their distinctive patina, among other things. I’ve included a few snaps for those who mightn’t be so familiar with it. It’s akin to what one would see on bespoke cordovan shoes. Can anyone shine(!) any light on how to go about this? Particularly with regard to the handle attachments and their sublime gloss. Has anyone got an interest in this or has anyone been successful developing this for their own work? Gratitude, in advance. Stephen

A short article from the May, 2020 Robb Report. Saddlery is a secret love of mine having spent most summers as a child on a stud farm with relatives.The enveloping scent of a tack room, deep, evocative and animalic still gets my heart going to this day. The genesis of my leather journey. What was yours? Enjoy, Stephen

A recent article from The Rake magazine Regarding a sweet little British company with a major following in the Far East. Yes, those are machines doing the stitching, not hands. industry marches on. Or at least it did at the time of printing. If there’s a copyright issue by having this here, forward legal correspondence to phil@leathercraftmasterclass.com Enjoy!

How do, all? I've recently moved house and now have a proper workspace to get stuck into. I was thinking about those sepia style posters of tools from old school manufacturers like Blanchard. @philipjury pointed me in the direction of Blanchard's site and their "About Us" section but I'm convinced I've seen more detailed and sexier ones on occasion. If anyone has any on a drive or knows where I might source such to either send to the printers or buy and ship, my sincerest appreciation. Here's what I'm on about... Stephen :-)

Hello all, I'm looking for some input regarding some nice, chunky, sleek brass (or similar) hardware. I've included some photos of the sort of look I'm going for. These are Tom Ford bags. I was in a boutique of his yesterday and couldn't figure out if what was written on the tag was a price or a phone number. Alas, I know we can all do better here. The zipper is a chunky, brass zipper with a large brass slider. The D-loops and the spring hooks felt a little light to be brass. I'm guessing they were plated. Abbey (England) do some proper hardcore equestrian grade brassware. Would I be doing well to use these and polish them up proper or can anyone suggest a reputable supplier for such items? If I had to guess, these are likely Italian. But I wouldn't put it past the Chinese to come up with something similar. Zips, also, I could do with some pointers. Phil @Leathercraft Masterclass suggested London Trimming for Riri. I had previously contacted Riri and they only seemed interested in wholesale orders, understandably. London Trimming seems to hit the spot as they ship to Ireland. Though, if anyone has any suggestions, please drop me a hint. Much obliged. Stephen :-)