Hello Leathercraft Masterclassers,
I’m looking for input on how to develop a nice patina using whatever method works well, probably some dye work and polish. The brand, Berluti is known for their distinctive patina, among other things. I’ve included a few snaps for those who mightn’t be so familiar with it. It’s akin to what one would see on bespoke cordovan shoes.
Can anyone shine(!) any light on how to go about this? Particularly with regard to the handle attachments and their sublime gloss. Has anyone got an interest in this or has anyone been successful developing this for their own work?
Gratitude, in advance. Stephen
I’ve used the Orion Calf series of dyes, and they’re excellent. You can absolutely achieve the ombré effects with them. I can’t remember her full name, but both knm leather and Laura Boos (Boos Leather) on instagram often have demos of their techniques. I’ve also combined them with Saphir polishes, and had no issues. Orion Calf also has a ‘Neutral Cream Wax‘ which gives a beautiful soft shine with some elbow grease, and a harder ‘Neutral Paste Wax’ as well.
The glassage takes me back to my military days - never connected what we were doing to the toe caps of our black patent Army boots with such a lovely term as glassage 😊
you are welcome @stephenkgavin
here is a demo featuring both mirror gloss and pate de luxe on a shoe toe
https://youtu.be/LEH2wFP6RZI
ciao
Angelo
The darkening is usually obtained by dabbing darker shades of dye on specific points (usually edges) or sometimes, as as been said in this thread already, with an airbrush. The shiny look instead is called Glassage and it’s obtained by applying wax on the surface mixed with small drops of water along the way. The best product to get that result in my opinion are from Saphir, especially the Medaille de or Pate de Luxe, which has also a bit of a pigment that can alone help with the darkening of some areas.
For a high mirror gloss there is a Saphir Mirror Gloss but I wouldn’t recommend it for surfaces that go under a lot of stress due to the high concentration of hard waxes that can cause cracking.
here is Olga Berluti herself demonstrating the cirage:
https://youtu.be/2EqCEyFX4vM
This is the link to the Pate De Luxe page:
https://saphir.com/product/pate-de-luxe/
If you are in the US (but they might ship worldwide actually) have a look at the dye and polish range from Orion Calf which I reckon are somehow related to some “European company very famous for their patina work” (i believe I have heard it in the leathercraft podcast Episode on American Tanning if I am not mistaken). I haven’t tried them yet but results online look amazing.
Hope it helps
Angelo
@stephenkgavin Yeah that's most likely airbrushing. You can also get leathers now that come with a removable darker coating that you rub off in certain areas, then apply a protective coat.
Although I don't have any personal experience creating this kind shading with dyes I have seen some people use airbrushing to get this effect. I believe that @Martin CarswelI has recently done this on one of his gorgeous sheaths.