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N.M
May 08, 2021
In Leathercraft Techniques
Hi all! I remember a documentary about a luxury house (Dior maybe), the worker explained that every pieces of leather went through a splitting machine to harmonize thickness throughout the surface. I’m a filmmaker, and the analogy i see would be « denoising », which is a post production process that smooth out an image by removing the grain, a process that kills the character of an image and its organic aspect in my opinion, i stay far away from it for personal taste.. What do you think about splitting leather for harmonization? What feel do you get? I insist on this aspect, the feel being greatly important to me.. What do you gain and what do you lose? Greetings from Paris!
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N.M
Mar 30, 2021
In Leather Tools
Hi all! I'm looking for a permanent double sided tape, does that exist? I need to glue a tiny leather piece under the lining to cover a metal part, contact ciment is too smelly to me and water based glue seems ephemeral in the long run. What do you guys think? Greetings!
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N.M
Feb 25, 2021
In Leather Tools
Hi all! I've bought a closure that came with nails : The tool needed for the installation is called "peening tool", very hard to find in the leather craft sphere and expensive (130$ at Rm leather). After research and diggings, i've found that this tool is used in two spheres essentially : - Jewelry / Watches making - Eyewear (glasses making). In jewelry, the tool is called "Perloir", very cheap (about 2$) with hard steel, high gloss and polished calotte, but the largest diameter is 1,35mm, which is not what we need.. https://www.vallorbe.com/file.cfm?cmsfile=&contentid=5112 In Eyewear, the tool is called "Bouterolle" (this term exists in jewelry but for a different tool), prices vary from 2$ to 15 : https://www.otelo.fr/bouterolles-rivets/64111005/SF-ID-00101912/ref-25871.html + https://www.materiel-optique.fr/pointeaux/614-assortiment-outils-de-choc-sur-socle-en-bois.html + https://www.essishop.fr/bouterolle-bruni-d-2mm The last one looks like the one used by Hermès at 25mn in this video : Have some of you tried these tools? What would be the best size between 2mm and and 3mm? And last but not least, how do you manage to protect the front piece of the lock while peening the nails in the back? I thought about doing it on a mattress.. Should i flatten them? They will be under the lining. Any tips would be great as this subject being not very documented.. Thank you all!
Peening tool, little secret.. content media
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N.M
Feb 03, 2021
In Help From The Community
Hi all! Does someone know how Armani managed to combine fur and leather without visible stitches? How would you do that? Glue seems the obvious answer but i don't like this solution, maybe the "invisible stitches technique ? But i'm not sure if that would work for leather / fur combinations.. Thank you!
Giorgio Armani - Fur on leather technique content media
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N.M
Jan 26, 2021
In Leather Tools
Hello all! Have some of you tried skiving chrome tanned leather with a woodworking block plane like this ? (Lie Nielsen No. 101 Violin Maker's Plane) I know some cheap leather planes exist but they are nowhere near the quality of a proper woodworking block plane. Some people successfully tried, but they had to heavily sharpen the blade because of its angle i guess (block planes exist in low and standard angle depending on the task) : here : https://www.reddit.com/r/Leathercraft/comments/ju4kdv/a_very_sharp_block_plane_makes_for_an_excellent/ here also : https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/56645-block-plane/ And a very interesting DIY project here : https://jeffpeachey.com/2011/09/05/razor-blade-planes-a-new-plane-designed-for-leather/ What do you guys think?
Woodworking block plane for leather skiving content media
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N.M
Jan 19, 2021
In General Chat
Hello everybody! I hope 2021 is starting well for all of you! I was wondering what was your favorite material for bag feet? A shop here in Paris used to sell beautiful silver plated feet (solid brass based or alloy) but they are out of stock since months, that made me wonder, is that smart to use a material known for losing its color with time? What about stainless steel or polished aluminium? Do you know some quality suppliers in Europe? I'm also curious to know what Philip used for his Turenne bag, they look like the ones we had in Paris.. Greetings!
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N.M
Oct 22, 2020
In Leathercraft Techniques
Hi all! I would like to discuss the Hermès technique for gussets, here is a video showing their perfectly rectangular ones, not trimmed at the angles to give it a round aspect like many do: And here is what i call the most mathematically accurate technique, trimmed angle in reverse (@3mn24s + @12mn15s) : Aesthetically wise, i really love the Hermès result, slick and stitches close to the borders, but i don't understand how can you not trim the angles and obtain these sooth edges. Accuracy wise, i prefer the "angle reverse" technique above as everything falls into place precisely, but can i obtain the Hermès result with this above technique? I do not consider the rounded angles as it does not fit my way of doing things.. Thank you all!
Hermès "Gusset" technique content media
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N.M
Oct 22, 2020
In Say Hello Before Posting
Hi everybody! I'm an emerging writer/filmmaker from Paris, i started leather work about 7 months ago with the need of making a bag for one of my character, but in hindsight, i've always been attracted towards this craft.. I remember watching "The Motorcycle Diaries" by Walter Salles, a wonderful movie about the early years of Ernesto Che Guevara, the main character skids on a gravelly road and all his personal belongings fall out the motorcycle, leather bags mostly with a puppy in one of them, i remember this image. Or athletes of the 60s with their leather gym bag going for the feat, there is something touching about that. I'm an athlete too. Here is my last Art film i directed for Hermès : https://vimeo.com/341502287 And here is my website where is published my Film photography work : https://nabilmendes.com Greetings from Paris!
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