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grantkang5
Jun 16, 2024
In Help From The Community
I’m working on a bag with a single piece gusset. It’s not a flipped bag - the front and back panels will overlap the gusset all the way around. I’m visualizing it in my head and finding it difficult to imagine saddle stitching . the front and back panels will obscure the interior and leave little room on the left hand side (it’s a crossbody relatively small bag) especially when I get to the 2nd panel and everything is closed in leaving just the zipper gusset open. Am I missing something or do I just have to go by feel and stitch without sight of the interior?
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grantkang5
Mar 19, 2023
In General Chat
Just wanted to share this video https://youtu.be/pUaUYBHSmMc. His video contents can be a bit silly but he shows off a lot of cool skills and techniques. Really inspired me to go and make something fun.
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grantkang5
Feb 08, 2023
In Leather Tools
I'm planning on buying a stamping machine between https://www.artisanleathersupply.com/collections/machines/products/stamping-machine-full-set & https://www.dreamfactorytools.com/products/stamping-machine?variant=31465078259756. I'm not too familiar with what type of specs I should be looking out for.
Artisanleathersupply is much cheaper and I've been buying a lot of my tools from this supplier since they are local to my area. Haven't had any problems so far and their customer service is great.
Dreamfactorytools seems like the popular choice and the standard for high quality stamping machines.
I'm not too familiar with stamping machines in general outside of the course video on here. Would anyone know by the spec sheet if the actual stamp sets are interchangeable between the two brands?
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grantkang5
Jan 03, 2023
In Help From The Community
I've been working on my bifold wallets for the past month to try and achieve the following build:
- 6/8 Card slots
- Use of softer chrome tanned leather + edge paint
- Fully lined with leather/fabric - Slimness (~< 3.0mm thickness MAX)
These might sound like silly standards to uphold especially for a beginner like myself but I've always had a strong fantasy of creating this perfect elegant dream bifold wallet when I started leathercraft 😉.
After doing tons of homework and "prototype" wallets I'm pretty comfortable up the the point in how I make and line the interior and assemble the card slots. I mostly struggle when it comes to make the stitching holes for all the combined layers.
In order to keep the edges thin I usually end up having a deep slope towards the edges caused by thinning out different layers within the wallet. This makes it difficult to make my stitching holes parallel without proper use of an awl which I'm not too comfortable with at the moment. Is the solution here to keep my build flatter overall or is this just unavoidable and I need to apply stitching holes better with the use of an awl? You can see the big curve towards the edge of the pockets in the pictures and the awkward stitching as a result of the poor stitching holes.
I'm also struggling with gluing components perfectly. I feel like half the battle with bifolds is precise cutting and bonding. Is there some magic technique or jig that people use for this?
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grantkang5
Dec 12, 2022
In General Chat
RMLeather Supply recently put some leathercraft books for sale by Studio Tac. They seem really interesting but it's entirely in Japanese and I couldn't find much additional information about them that RMLS was willing to share. Does anyone have any experience with these books?
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grantkang5
Dec 12, 2022
In Help From The Community
2nd from the left. Really like the pattern. Looks like it has quite a tight grain from what I can see.
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grantkang5
Dec 07, 2022
In Share Your Projects
Finished the lizzie handbag course - Thanks @Leathercraft Masterclass! This is my first bag or anything with a gusset. I've never made anything bigger than a wallet so far so this was quite fun. Excited to learn and make more
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grantkang5
Dec 07, 2022
In Help From The Community
What causes these lines when skiving?
Recently noticed my bell skiver leaves more emphasized lines from each pass. This is soft french goat skin that started at 1.3mm~ skived down to around 0.8mm-0.6mm.
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grantkang5
Nov 15, 2022
In Help From The Community
Anyone else have trouble with threading linen threads on the needle? I'm using Fil au chinois 832 (.45mm I believe) threads on John James 004 needles. I usually pierce the thread two times after the base and when pulling everything together usually one of them snap leaving me with a single strand pierced. Also tends to be really vulnerable to snapping during the stitching phase and I have to be extra careful. I run the thread through beeswax 5-6x and run it through some cloth which definitely helps but threading the needle always ends up being such an endeavor.
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grantkang5
Oct 25, 2022
In Leather Tools
Has anyone used a dremel for edges? I'm learning that the initial flatness of your edges really affect the end results most. I've seen some videos where a dremel is used for flattening the edges before the first application.
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grantkang5
Aug 13, 2022
In Help From The Community
Purchased a bell skiver recently and I went through the whole process of sharpening and tuning the machine. Tension on the belt seems good and smooth - I can press down and start the motor gradually towards full speed and it's running smoothly.
I'm able to easily skive small pieces of leather down to 0.4mm without too many issues but when I try to do an entire split skive using the entire 2 inches of the blade the machine starts making a lot of squeaky sounds. I'm currently trying to skive some simple veg tan (buttero/pueblo) from 1.2mm to around 0.6mm and the tension doesn't feel great when I try to skive 2 inches width. I have to help the feed roller along and there's a ton of squeaking on the belt -- too little power, leather ends up getting stuck, too much and the leather just rips through.
Is this a problem with the blade not being sharp enough? Height and distance of the foot was tested on a smaller scrap piece so that should be fine. Is the distance between the feed roller and the blade too close? Is the tension on the belt a problem? I'm not sure where to start or how to test for these things.
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grantkang5
Aug 09, 2022
In Share Your Projects
Been grinding restless on watch straps the past 2 weeks and I've finally made something I'm happy with. No bad cuts, no bad stitches, edges are satisfactory, no icky stuff running on the side, hugs the lugs (yay!) :) and I quite like the look of the caviar.
Materials used:
Exterior is calfskin caviar 1.0mm
Velodon Reinforcement/Non stretch tape reinforcement on overlaps
Zermatt calf lining 0.8mm
1.0mm veg tan filler
I'm still very new to the craft but I'm very satisfied with the improvements - here's my takeaways and greatest learning from all my failures in the last 2 weeks:
- Let the glue dry!!
- Let the edge paint dry!!
- Overlap a ton of teeth when punching holes with pricking iron - I overlapped 4-5 teeth on an 8 teeth iron. I think this was the single greatest change I made in improving my stitching and alignment of my stitching holes.
- Take your time especially on the simpler things. I learned that the smallest of mistakes in the beginning would really trickle down and affect every process to the final result. I really learned to enjoy each step of the process no matter how repetitive things got - you really have to be a perfectionist with this craft or at least with tinier projects like watch straps.
- Learn your leather!!
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grantkang5
Dec 13, 2021
In Help From The Community
Anyone have any advice for decreasing the noise from hammering when making holes using pricking irons? I work on a flat wooden desktop and I usually pad some flat scrap leather below. I live in an apt and I worry about the noise. This is especially a problem when I'm making holes for thicker pieces that requires 6-10 hits.
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grantkang5
Nov 22, 2021
In Share Your Projects
Hi guys, I started learning about leathercrafting a month ago with the main goal of creating high quality leather straps for my watches. This is my first project and I'm very pleased with the results. Here to share my thoughts and hopefully gain some valuable knowledge and advice for my next one which I plan to start right away!
The strap is made using a green goatskin for the top and tanned goatskin for the lining.
I definitely got a little lazy and started rushing towards the end on the stitching and making the keepers.
Aside from my horrendous knife skills I think some of my biggest difficulties were:
1. Stitching - Just so many errors here. Kept splitting the thread, I think I had to use 4-5 threads for this (Philip uses 2 in the video). Didn't backstitch on one of the sides.
2. Pricking - maybe my lighting is terrible but I had a hard time using the line made by my wing divider to guide me to a straight and consistent line for pricking. I caught myself several times during this phase where I went off the line. Also noticed that my holes were not aligned from each side which caused some trouble when it came to gluing down the buckle flap on the lining (holes didn't match well)
3. Skiving - I struggled with this throughout the project but started getting the hang of it. I generally thought I didn't have to be as precise with my surfaces for the parts I needed to skive but in the end it made quite a difference on the lining side.
4. Edge painting - I had no idea what I was doing here, I used an edge paint roller I bought from amazon and just painted the edges. You can definitely see it bleeding over the sides and some finger marks here and there on the actual strap xD.
5. Keeping my work station clean - I'm not the cleanest guy, but I recognize and value that a clean workspace = cleaner product..but boy was it difficult to keep a clean work area. Just so many tools and scrap pieces of leather flying everywhere.
Overall, I was a harsh critic to my initial work but upon fitting it on a watch and wearing it, didn't look too bad at all and I thoroughly enjoyed the entire process!
Thanks for reading!
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grantkang5
Nov 19, 2021
In Say Hello Before Posting
Hi I'm grant from LA, California. I've been digging into leathercrafting in the past month and just doing absorbing as much information as possible and made the decision to buy the course and start my first project. I'm a software engineer and don't have too much experience with any craft work. I'm a huge watch enthusiast and I got into this with the hope of making amazing watch straps!
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grantkang5
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