I understand this will of course add strength and for various styles it is also a necessary visual component. But for certain watch pairings I'm really fond of the sleek look of no stitching at all. For example the "Luther" from Bas and Loke (see below). Is this look possible with glue only or is there likely some stitching inside and then covered by a non-stitched cosmetic veneer?

I've seen it mentioned in several sources that when working with synthetics, for example bonding a nylon ripstop to a watch strap, that a solvent based contact adhesive should be used. I do my work on the dining room table and since it's 20 degrees below freezing opening a window isn't really an option (well, that and my house is 100 years old and the windows are painted shut haha) so I'm really trying to avoid harsh fumes. So I tried a little test. The Aquilum instructions were a bit cryptic but I think what they are saying is that if you have a non-porous item you should bond them while wet and if both items are porous then you should wait until it dries to combine them for a stronger overall bond. I think the nylon qualifies as non-porous so I put Aquilum 315 on some Herman Oak veg tan and on some ripstop and put the two together while still wet. I pressed it together with my thumbs, didn't hammer or clamp it. 24 hours later I tried to pull it apart and it completely tore the leather. Do I really need a bond stronger than this?

After probably 50 hours of "class" with Philip I figured it was time to try to do something in the real world. I had just finished sharpening a Japanese skiving knife and it was in bad need of some kind of sheath. This was a very quick and dirty project with no pattern or planning really. The only thing I was trying to get "nice" was the stitching. I'm disappointed with the look of this 0.6mm Ritza Tiger thread. First, I don't like how flat it is. But what I really can't understand is what happens in the final mm of each stitch. It's like it unravels or spreads out or something. First, the sheath. After looking at Philip's work this feels like a 7 year old bringing a school project gift home and the parent has to ask what is it? haha I didn't utilize the corner stitch trick (obviously) but I did try to do backstitches at each end. But given how fat the regular stitches look the backstitches are really spilling over. Using a 4Z 2.7mm stitching iron with the 0.6 Ritza and JJ #4 needles. It feels like that needle/thread combo is a bit too big for that hole size, especially with 3 thick pieces of leather. I had to use a pliers to pull the needle through a few times, it would catch on the eye. But I can't find a smaller JJ needle for sale in the US, so maybe it's just the thread that is oversized. I waxed the thread several times while stitching so it was no fraying or anything like that. To prove this to myself I did a test after with a scrap. Here is the stitch as it is being pulled in. You can see the loose thread is still nice and streamlined, no fraying or separation. Sorry, I see now that this next one is a bit out of focus, but here is that stitch pulled taut and then all stitches hammered done (not excessively, just enough to make flush). To my eye some of these almost look like two stitches side by side. They are definitely wider than the bare thread and some have like a crease in the middle which gives that look of a double stitch. Am I being too anal here? Or am I doing something wrong? Or is this the nature of the beast with the flat thread? I could imagine how the thread could roll over itself and be more likely to "kink" since it's not perfectly round. But I'm not sure if that's what is happening or not... Any input would be appreciated!

I don't have a creaser of any kind as I've been holding out to get an electric one. But I feel like I can't follow any of the course projects without some creasing! RM has been out of stock for a month and it sounds like they are getting a different system when they do get it back (a digital display for one thing). In any case, I think I'm going to take the plunge and get one of the aliexpress systems. I was hoping for advice on which style/size tips you all would recommend for smaller detailed projects such as watch straps and wallets? The tips are $13/each so I can get a few extras without a huge risk, but don't want to get one of everything and only use 10% of them :) This is a picture from their listing showing the styles offered. (Link here if anyone is curious) In addition to these tips I'll get a "spatula", "small iron" and "sector head". But mainly looking for advice on styles for edge creasing itself. Applications would be thin leathers, both English bridle and some skins. Maybe chrome tan too, not sure. Thanks! Jeff

I was listening to a podcast where Philip mentioned how so many tools were built by people who had never worked in the craft and how obvious this was the first time an experienced person tried to use them. So with that in mind, I've never used or even seen a stitching clam in real life but it seems like a great idea to try and build one ;) Actually, for full background, I am trying to order some overseas tools and it seems like I'll have a few weeks to wait until they arrive. In the meantime, while watching the videos here I figured I could use some woodworking experience to build a few things. My question is, for those who have actually used a clam, is there something you'd ideally tweak about its design? I'm fairly tall (6'4" / 193cm) so I'm not sure how an off the shelf clam would fit me. I'm making mine adjustable in height within a range of 36 to 51 inches (90cm and 130cm) approx. The Blanchard ones appear to be 105cm and 130cm. When I take a scrap board and lay it across my leg it seems like something around 48" (122cm) would do it, but I'm not entirely sure where I should target the jaws of this thing being. In some pics I see people with them low, close the leg, and in others it seems much more upright by the chest. The Fred Moreau one that people rave about seems to be used very upright. But Philip seems to have his much lower. Also, if it matters, I plan to work on small items for now - watch straps and wallets, so I don't think I need huge capacity. The jaws I have drawn below are about 13" deep and close to 3" high. This of course is why I'll build the initial one from plywood before committing to final dimensions, but any input at this stage would really help! Thanks, Jeff