I'll definitely give other finishes a try next time. Thanks!

@Fadi I was hoping to make shoulder straps with these tails or watch straps. 🥲… I think I can wiggle patterns for the watch straps but the shoulder strap is hopeless. The bellies are fine more or less, perfect for wallets and bags. The supplier calls this scale overlap and not slipping/lifting but also says they do not grade the tails of wild alligator. Another vendor confirms the same grading method. In short… buy decent farm raised and don’t go cheap… if you absolutely need the tails… 🥲

@Leathercraft Masterclass Oh God save me... is there a way to buy single hides from Heng Long? And is there a way to know in advance if any scales are lifting? Or is this just to be expected?

Been trying to upload since last night but the process keeps getting stuck at 99% even after I shrank it to 94 kg jpeg. So uploaded a file for you to download.

Went back to inspect the hides, and yup, probably have to work around those spots or cut them side ways in those areas and stitch them down.

I tried to glue a test piece but honestly if it's a high stress area (ridge of wallets, belts/straps, corner of a turned edge), the adhesive will not last. Maybe, I'll just have to be extra careful with where to cut?

The outer needs to be longer than the inner. The exact difference depends on your design, the thickness and stretch of the leathers, but basically, the difference is the difference between 2 semicircles.

Hey Ivo, Thanks for the great suggestions. I thought about hardening after cutting and shaping. I have a 65 HRC skiver, and the thing is a frigging stone even when you sharpen it on DMT 1200 and 8000, so I’m always afraid of damaging it. It’s a relatively cheap blade but the time it takes to sharpen it is insane. Unfortunately, I do not know people who can reliably perform the service near my area. I’m sure there are but I just don’t know anyone. So, I’ll likely order the blanks from Jantz and have it done by Peter’s Heat Treating. For the lower angle, since the blanks sold by Jantz are 1/8”, I’ll have to grind away a good portion of the steel, and so I’m considering using a sanding belt to gradually remove the steel without overheating it. I’ll have to check and see at what temperature would 20CV or 4V start softening, but if it has to be done by hand, well, I’ll … I don’t want to think about that right now. 20CV is quite decent when it comes to edge retention and is easier to maintain, but I think you’re absolutely right about higher HRC being better for skiving and 4V is not only harder but also tougher than 20CV (someone on YouTube made a video of 4V chopping nails and stabbed it into an anvil, all without breaking it). Also, my experience with 20CV is limited to the 2 knives I bought from Leather Wrangler, and the performance could have a lot to do with the geometry of how they made them instead of just the metal itself. BTW, zero knife making experience here, and really don’t have time to pick up another hobby but I really want something that works perfect for me (without having to pay $$$). Thanks, Danny

KS Blade, but also learn how to use a stitching awl. It's a skill that'll pay you back in no time.

Even the style of your works separate clients into paying clients and not. Every decision differentiates and limits. The question isn't whether or not a differentiating decision will limit your market share. The question is whether or not a decision will allow you to tap into a sustainable market share. I'm a firm believer of playing the long game, as long as your resource allows.

Blows my mind... I'll be using my notes from grad school left in my garage...

I've been wondering. Thanks for taking the hit.