With an upcoming briefcase commission, I'm looking back at one I made a couple of years ago. Thoughts welcome. (Not sure how to publish more than one image at a time but will give it a go.)
Terry Millard is my stitching hero. Here are a couple of not-great photos of today's experiment. Tightening the "back" hand first was quite helpful, Terry. Plus, I think, being dead consistent on hand angles and string tension. The photos show 3.4mm bridle pierced with Amy Roke 3.38 and stitched with waxed 532 lin cable. Lightly hammered.
I think 532 thread and Amy RoKen 3.38 would look great. Here are a couple pictures of a duffle I just started. I’m using KS Blade 3.85 irons and #5 Vinymo thread and casting the stitch. No. 5 is .60 mm so it is close to 532. I haven’t used Amy Roke irons but I’d imagine they are close to KS Blade.
Are you casting your stitch on back? I was casting on the above images. To achieve consistent stitching I focus on:
+ cast thread on back when stitch will show and I don‘t want a straight stitch line
+ consistent hand/arm angles when I tighten - this consistently puts thread in same place in hole.
+ I pull the back thread tight first, this seats the front thread up into top of hole
Edited to change irons to 3.85. I forgot I changed my mind from 3.38 to 3.85.
I do like the aesthetic of the finer stitch, and toward that end I've practiced with a set of Amy Roke 3.38 and a spool of 532 fil au chinois lin cable. So far with that setup only the front looks good, so I've got more work to do before using that on a piece like this. I'm pretty sure I'm following Phil's instructions for stitching, so is the 532 too big for the 3.38 iron? Other? Another thread I follow is raving about Kevin Lee irons (I'm sure there must be several makers whose irons will produce angled stitching on both sides. Thoughts welcome on sorting this out.
I like your briefcase. Two items to consider. Both are subjective based on the overall design, so not meant to be a criticism. Thread looks like .8 mm Tiger thread. You could go with a smaller thread diameter and something “softer”, like Fil au Chinois "Lin Cable" Waxed Linen Thread size 432 or smaller. This would change the style some and may or may not work for your customer. The other item I might consider is changing the handle tabs. They look squared off. Rounding the ends or maybe an English point would add a little more visual interest. Two options your customer may or may find interesting.
Thanks to all for the feedback. Daniel, your point about a a pocket is well taken. Perhaps Phil will cover pockets in the bag-making courses. I've tended to make these briefcases without pockets after Valerie Michael's briefcase in her book and after Mr. Gizzi, whose first name escapes me.
For the commission, I have an idea for what I'm calling a floating pocket -- basically a compact, open-top bag that will fit inside the briefcase for quick access to the client's glasses, phone, etc. The pocket will have snap hooks that can attach to small d-rings caught in side seams at front and back. That way, it can sit securely at the front or back, serve as a center divider or be removed altogether. The client ordered a black bag, but I know he likes color, so I might add a red accent to the pocket, and it should all go well with the brass hardware inside and out. As always, thoughts welcome.
Really like the overall design and, as Phil mentioned, the colorcombinations is well on point!
If I were the customer I might have wanted an easy access pocket on the back for the idonthavetimetoopenthewholethingorillmissthetrain moments:) where u can just scuff a notebook, pad, map, papers or what ever down on the go:)
Thanks, Phil. I'll see if I can dig up a shot of the interior. There's not much to see, except the Hermann Oak natural veg lining with a coat of neatsfoot oil. No pockets, etc.
Question: On the back of the briefcase, the little strap linking the bag to the D-ring ... does something like that need to be stitched?
I assume that you are looking for constructive criticism before undertaking a new order, but unfortunately you have come up with one of my favourite colour combinations of deep burgundy and dark green stitching together with brass hardware.
Perhaps you could show some pictures of the interior?
Tap the mouse cursor where you would normally type (the next line down where there is no text for example) and you should see a circle with a + sign in it. Hit that to add another picture or video etc.
Terry Millard is my stitching hero. Here are a couple of not-great photos of today's experiment. Tightening the "back" hand first was quite helpful, Terry. Plus, I think, being dead consistent on hand angles and string tension. The photos show 3.4mm bridle pierced with Amy Roke 3.38 and stitched with waxed 532 lin cable. Lightly hammered.
Further thoughts welcome.
And thank you!
I think 532 thread and Amy RoKen 3.38 would look great. Here are a couple pictures of a duffle I just started. I’m using KS Blade 3.85 irons and #5 Vinymo thread and casting the stitch. No. 5 is .60 mm so it is close to 532. I haven’t used Amy Roke irons but I’d imagine they are close to KS Blade.
Are you casting your stitch on back? I was casting on the above images. To achieve consistent stitching I focus on:
+ cast thread on back when stitch will show and I don‘t want a straight stitch line
+ consistent hand/arm angles when I tighten - this consistently puts thread in same place in hole.
+ I pull the back thread tight first, this seats the front thread up into top of hole
Edited to change irons to 3.85. I forgot I changed my mind from 3.38 to 3.85.
Terrific ideas, Terry and Phil. Much appreciated.
I do like the aesthetic of the finer stitch, and toward that end I've practiced with a set of Amy Roke 3.38 and a spool of 532 fil au chinois lin cable. So far with that setup only the front looks good, so I've got more work to do before using that on a piece like this. I'm pretty sure I'm following Phil's instructions for stitching, so is the 532 too big for the 3.38 iron? Other? Another thread I follow is raving about Kevin Lee irons (I'm sure there must be several makers whose irons will produce angled stitching on both sides. Thoughts welcome on sorting this out.
Thanks again for all the remarks.
I like your briefcase. Two items to consider. Both are subjective based on the overall design, so not meant to be a criticism. Thread looks like .8 mm Tiger thread. You could go with a smaller thread diameter and something “softer”, like Fil au Chinois "Lin Cable" Waxed Linen Thread size 432 or smaller. This would change the style some and may or may not work for your customer. The other item I might consider is changing the handle tabs. They look squared off. Rounding the ends or maybe an English point would add a little more visual interest. Two options your customer may or may find interesting.
Thanks to all for the feedback. Daniel, your point about a a pocket is well taken. Perhaps Phil will cover pockets in the bag-making courses. I've tended to make these briefcases without pockets after Valerie Michael's briefcase in her book and after Mr. Gizzi, whose first name escapes me.
For the commission, I have an idea for what I'm calling a floating pocket -- basically a compact, open-top bag that will fit inside the briefcase for quick access to the client's glasses, phone, etc. The pocket will have snap hooks that can attach to small d-rings caught in side seams at front and back. That way, it can sit securely at the front or back, serve as a center divider or be removed altogether. The client ordered a black bag, but I know he likes color, so I might add a red accent to the pocket, and it should all go well with the brass hardware inside and out. As always, thoughts welcome.
Really like the overall design and, as Phil mentioned, the colorcombinations is well on point!
If I were the customer I might have wanted an easy access pocket on the back for the idonthavetimetoopenthewholethingorillmissthetrain moments:) where u can just scuff a notebook, pad, map, papers or what ever down on the go:)
not much to critisize from the pics, the work looks clean and pretty goooood.
Love how clean and simple it is
Thanks, Phil. I'll see if I can dig up a shot of the interior. There's not much to see, except the Hermann Oak natural veg lining with a coat of neatsfoot oil. No pockets, etc.
Question: On the back of the briefcase, the little strap linking the bag to the D-ring ... does something like that need to be stitched?
@smithdal Thank you for posting!
I assume that you are looking for constructive criticism before undertaking a new order, but unfortunately you have come up with one of my favourite colour combinations of deep burgundy and dark green stitching together with brass hardware.
Perhaps you could show some pictures of the interior?
Tap the mouse cursor where you would normally type (the next line down where there is no text for example) and you should see a circle with a + sign in it. Hit that to add another picture or video etc.
Cheers,
Phil