The popular notion of 10,000 hours to absolutely master/perfect a skill can translate down to a mere 20 spools of thread. How so, if one averages 5 stitches a minute, or 300 stitches an hour (right now that seems like an incredibly fast rate), then 10,000 hours translates into 3 million stitches until perfection. Taking those 3 million stitches over a 2.7mm pricking iron (10 SPI) would be 300,000 inches or 25,000 feet. Convert that into meters, and divide by 375m per spool for the 832 Fil Au Chinois thread, and you have a mere 20 spools - doesn’t seem like too much. I guess I better get started. -
Unfortunately, I can’t seem to order that brand in Canada without paying shipping and import duties, but have ready access to the Ritza Tiger thread at two different local shops here in Calgary. Besides, I believe the one blog post suggested that the Tiger thread is easier on beginners, and I have enough other learning gaps to overcome before I intentionally add difficulty into the projects.
Well, I’ve completed my first project (well almost completed as I’m waiting for some beeswax to be delivered to make the leather conditioner) from the course, the bespoke leather apron. I’m much happier how this turned out, compared to the first project. It is still a long way from perfection, but something that I’m happy to display or wear around others. Similar to my last post there were a number of different items that I learned:
For this project, there are a number of different learnings to reflect on, such as:
It is difficult to cut a straight line in a softer leather that was used. I remember seeing a video somewhere on this, that I need to go and refresh. In that instance, I thought it was a much thinner leather than I was using (this leather is 1.2mm)
A strap cutter helps improve the making of straps, but isn’t perfect, so needs to be diligent while using the strap cutter. I’m sure there is more technique here that can be improved on, such as even getting the strap cutting started.
Using a higher quality thread, such as Tiger thread makes sewing much easier for the most part. One day I will try linen thread, but for ease and cost, I’ll stick with the Tiger thread at the moment.
The little trick of threading the needle, by holding the thread between thumb and pointer and bring the needle towards the thread worked really well.
The #4 needle with the 0.6 mm thread was an easy combination for sewing. Need to sort when to use a thicker thread, based how much of it is a design element vs a structural element for the thicker thread?
I have thank @Fadi for his tip on thread length. Didn’t run out this time. On the short runs, remember to use 5x the length of the run and the long runs, 4x the length would be fine. I know there is a transition point, between 4 and 5x. Just not sure where that transition point is, but suspect that is one of those things that comes with practice.
While coming back through to finish off the stitch, I caught the thread twice, making it difficult to bring it back through. Sometimes, there is the opportunity to bring the needle back through the hole in the thread, tighten up the thread and carry on as if nothing happened. Other times, it is too late to notice what happened. Hoping the extra glue on the backside will keep everything sorted.
Water based adhesive is much thinner than first anticipated and easier to get too much on the spreader. I also noticed using a roller seemed to have moved the glued pieces slightly, requiring a little extra trimming. I’m guessing that I didn’t let the glue dry enough, or put a little too much glue on.
When cutting through the leather, does it matter if the knife is a single bevel vs double bevel if the knife edge is sharpened to a shallow angle?
Need to remember to test how hot the creaser needs to be prior to using. I don’t think it was hot enough (at least it wasn’t too hot). I know that alcohol was used in video, but is there any issue with using tea light candles? I know if the creaser is too close, it can start to blacken the metal and transfer to the project, but this seemed like a quick and easy alternative.
Having a leather supply shop nearby is handy, as I had this week off work and set out to tackle the project. That also meant three separate trips to the leather store for various tools, etc. Having a sufficient amount of time to focus on this project and work through completion was also helpful, rather than continually picking up and putting down the items. Sadly, that will be the remaining projects for some time.
Well that’s enough rambling for a Saturday morning. For those that celebrate, have a Happy Easter, otherwise have a great weekend.
Rob
Thank you both. I was applying a layer to both sides, but only waiting 2-3 minutes, so I think that is the underlying problem.
It is EcoWeld water based contact adhesive.
Again, thank you for the detailed tips and answers to my questions below. I will check out the thread from Seymour Leather, appreciate you sending the link. The whole world of thread is a completely new area for me.
On the gluing, I suspect that I might not be waiting long enough for the glue to get tacky - is it possible to wait too long? For example, don’t leave it longer than an hour or something like that?
For cutting, I’m marking out the pattern with an awl first, then cutting, so glad to hear a double bevel knife isn’t an issue. I just wasn’t sure if the double bevel put a slight angle on the cut of the leather and when you bring the pieces together, it isn’t a perfect 90 degree edge.
Next up is another apron, this one for my son in different colours (Red, with black straps).
Hello hello hello,
Good to see you are having fun and improoving :)
1- The downside to using tea candles is that depending on the candle composition, they might emit some soot wich in turn will get stuck on your creaser and might be transfered onto your leather. I would say, prior to using the tea candle creaser on the leather, just make sure with your eye that there is not soot on it. What you can also do, is use the tea candle, wait for the creaser to cool and wipe it down with a white cloth and check. Wait, i just reread what you wrote, and you allready know about that :D. but since i allready typed it, I am not going to delete this paragraph :p
2- Ritza sucks (well, at least for me)! Also, because of it's flattened shap, it is way easier to catch the thread with your needle while you stitch and have to spend decades trying to come up with a plan to remove the needle from between the pierced thread without compromising the stitch.
3- A good alternative to Ritza, in Canada, is this https://seymourleather.co/collections/xiange-polyester-thread . It is also polyester but has a very linen"y' feel and look to it. Extremly strong too with vibrant colors.
4- Regarding the pieces moving when you press them with a roller. You probably have too much glue to being with, but what really matters is that you a pressing the 2 pieces together before the glue becomes tacky. Before pressing, the glue should be tacky to stop the pieces from moving. A bit more patience when gluing :)
5- Regarding the bevel/double bevel. If you are marking your pattern with an awl/pen/whatever and then cutting, then no, it does not matter because you can see where the edge of your blade is cutting and you can make sure that it is along the lines you marked. But, if you use your pattern as a guide (i.e you keep your pattern on the leather and push your blade alongside it to cut), then having a bevel on both sides means that the blade will cut the leather at a distance from the pattern (The thickness of the bevel) as the upper flat part of the blade will be indexed against your pattern. You could end up with a piece larger by a 1mm than your patterns. In most situations, it really doesnt matter, BUT when making something very precise in nature like a watch strap, an extra 1mm means your watchband will probably not fit your watch anymore.
Have a nice day :)
@denalicat Thank you for sharing your thoughts Rob. Looks like a nice apron!
Hey, One thing I noticed on Fil Au Chinois was while it’s a nice thread, it tangles very often and quite a lot at the stitching hole leading to knots I couldn’t get out or ripped thread. Now I’m not sure if this is common or not. I’ve tried waxing it and not waxing and got similar results.