I have attempted to make Philip’s slim wallet with some modifications (slightly longer and flat sleeve on one side for my checkbook, added strap to close). It all started so nicely until the final stages. I used pricking iron (3mm) to mark the inside stitches. Because the chain link side was too thick, I ended up using an awl (diamond) to puncture the markings all the way through. The end result was somewhat decent stitching on the inside and just plain terrible on the outer/face side. Naturally, I will be blaming the perfect Philip for my own imperfections (ok, not really) but...I did watch the stitching video but clearly not getting something. Could you please share your own techniques on perfect stitching using an awl (with pricking iron my stitching looks fine)? any aha moments? the perfect awl? the perfect grip? Thank you!



Veronica, its not perfection but its blooming good! Sometimes I find the materials flex as I push the awl in matter how sharp and that puts them off true. I bought a small cork block which i held behind, to keep the leather straight. Lots of places sell them including Wilko. Here is a link to one online.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-66082-Cork-Sanding-Block/dp/B0001K9ZTG/ref=sr_1_5?adgrpid=51681643165&gclid=Cj0KCQiA_c-OBhDFARIsAIFg3exVkb-b59Trz4UsLHzpCmsrV3AJYM4VcaZTN7kFCfvM9kJt2rKxH2oaAnDHEALw_wcB&hvadid=259070311619&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9045297&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=13201287367249272488&hvtargid=kwd-303316960018&hydadcr=29380_1700888&keywords=cork+sanding+block&qid=1641293858&sr=8-5
Please keep it up Veronica!!, We have all been where you are now!, this was my 10 attempt at a card wallet. I focused SO much on getting the angle right, I was nearly shaking. And it shows!. For me, snub nose, and loop at the end of the awl. And practice, made me confidant, and stitches run straight now :D
Another thing, is the leather you are using. its a vary stiff temper, so your stitches dont sink in the leather right. And that means to have to be even better!
Also, remember that Guitar thing Phillip learned you!
Dont get discouraged, you are doing great!
@Veronica (Nica) Thank you for sharing this Veronica, it's great to see your progress. I wouldn't count this as a failure since there is a lot of opportunity to learn here.
1) Avoid using an awl only when you have to. In the beginning, you should spend more time stitching scraps of leather than your actual projects. When you can stitch on autopilot without thinking, your seam accuracy will improve. So get those hours in!
2) Focus on consistency. The rear shows that your awl is exiting at different angles, which is why there is a variation in your rear stitches. Keep your awl sharp and the blade entering the leather at the same angle each time. Keep your wrist firm and raise your elbow. Your arm sets the angle of entry, not your hand.
3) Keep the seam as low to the top of the clams as possible. This will support the leather to reduce the amount it bends as you push your awl in.
(You may see me breaking this rule sometimes, but it's so you can see what I am doing clearly on camera).
Also to note, if you are using two colours of leather, you may want to use a thread colour that contrasts the face side where you entered with the awl/pricking iron. Ideally the contrast should occur on the best looking side.
Yes, 1,2mm awl blade width is for tiny stitches (12spi / 2 - 2.25mm irons). So you will unlikely see proud angles on display when matched with larger irons.
Hi, Veronica, when Phil is working with the awl it looks so easy. I had the same experience that you had with your wallet. And just recently I found out success with the awl depends largely other tool. Itried several awl from Wuha, filed and polished them, but the results always came out poorly. Last week I got a new awl, and it’s world different. Only the tip is sharp, very sharp, it’s perfectly polished somit glides more than you need to push. But- it also depends very muchon the leather. Some tough leather just doesn’t seem to work. Not yet😀. Here is a link to the awl I purchased: https://www.etsy.com/de/listing/570165606/flache-ahle-fur-leder-pistolenhafte?transaction_id=2347418966&campaign_label=proteus_transaction_buyer_notification_boe_convo_url_treatment&utm_source=transactional&utm_campaign=proteus_transaction_buyer_notification_boe_convo_url_treatment_010170_419265317394_0_0&utm_medium=email&utm_content=&email_sent=1615460205&euid=WI2L9j39GVO4YPa_zAv1kECdyqmH&eaid=48323351933&x_eaid=ff51f3642c