PATTERN FOR DOCTOR BAG

Thank you. I have been looking but am astonished at how much these bags go for. Is there a rule? The tattier, the more expensive.

No, generally the other way round. You may be looking at tatty bags that are from a well known maker such as Finnigans or other desirable brands no longer in existence. That raises prices even in a poor condition.

Ok. First, you need to calculate the width of the panels, which will be the same as the frame perimeter (more on that later). First, decide what width you want your front/back panel to be. Then, subtract that from the perimeter and you'll have the gusset width. Don't forget to take into account the overlaps needed to stitch together the front/back panels and the gussets. As for the frame perimeter measurement, it's a bit difficult to explain, but I'll try. Here it goes:

Imagine the frame in the open position sitting on top of a sheet of paper. You take a pen and trace the outside perimeter and the inside perimeter. Obviously, there will be a difference, due to the frame thickness. If you draw a median line between those two, that's the size (width) your stitched panels must be. If you take the outside perimeter, the bag will be a bit too big for the frame, if you take the inside perimeter, you'll have a hard time fitting them as well. Does that make sense?

Now you can calculate the base size, which is roughly the same as the frame in the open position, but don't forget to take into account the type of construction you're going to use and the leather thickness. I'm assuming you've got some experience in figuring out how to make the base, reinforce it, etc, as well as to how to attach the gussets to the frame. If not, let me know.

As for the height, 15" is when the bag is open or closed? Because you have to remember that the way the bag closes uses some of the internal space. Also, you should take into account visual harmony, otherwise the bag can look weird if it's too tall, for example.

To calculate the panel height, there's a bit of guessing work to be done. Too little and the bag will have a more triangular profile when closed (and less internal space), too much and it will bulge when closed. Try to imagine the mechanics involved in the opening/closing and how that relates to panel size. If I'm not mistaken, mine were a bit taller than larger.

With these in mind, get yourself some 2mm EVA foam from a craft store, ebay, etsy, whatever, and make a prototype. It's paramount you do it first. This is not a difficult bag to make, but because of the hinged system, you have to make sure the frame size works well with the panel sizes, or the bag may be difficult to close. Also, you can fine-tune panel height, etc.

Finally, the tongue is pretty straightforward. If you're not sure, I suggest you temporarily attach the frame and the panels (stitch in a few places, for example), close the bag and use a mockup tongue to define the final size. Shapewise, is up to you. The commonly used is easy to make.

Let me know if you need help with those. I searched online for a long time for a nice pattern and couldn't find one, so I made my own. Honestly, it was a great decision.

Brilliant. Thank you so much. If I go wrong now. It will be totally down to me

Thank you very much for the reply. The pictures are all in my head at the moment but I’m thinking:

• 20” x 5” frame. That obviously governs length and width

• 15” deep. So that it can be used as a weekend bag

• Lined interior but no pockets

• 2 looped handles as per a normal weekender bag

• Locking with a tongue as you would see on a Dulles style bag.

More than anything, it is getting the gussets at either end correctly sized

So I'm assuming you'll be making a bag more like picture 1, rather than 2, right? 1:

2: