Hi,
Trying to follow the stitching video, using a single piece of leather. I stitch without casting and right side looks angled. I then cast and the left side looks angled, right side looks bad. Then switched back and, again, right side looks angled. Not sure how to get both sides to look nice. I tried left side forward up / right side right down. Nothing is working. Very frustrating.
Points are up and away.
Left needle goes through.
Right goes behind left needle.
Right needle goes through above left needles thread.
NO CAST
Pull needles through.
Right side is angled.
CAST
Pull needles through.
Left side is angled.
Right side looks horrible.
BACK TO NO CAST
Pull needles through.
Right side is angled again.
This is the back:
Updating my original post as instructed, used a thick piece of really low quality veg-tan. Much better results.
Tried for the first time, pricking with a stitching awl (see red stitch below), and I understand how it could open up more possibilities. Also stabbed my thumb pretty bad despite efforts not to do that! Usually use really thin pieces of chrome tan, so don't know if stitching awl is possible using thin chrome tan.
I think the issue comes from the extremely thin 1 piece of leather. Try the same casting technique one something with more body and see whether you get the same results
@FrancescoColumbu Hi Francesco, before I throw any theories into the mix, I need to address the glaring problem that is the tiny piece of thin soft leather that you are attempting to stitch.
As a beginner you need the correct platform to stitch with and that is a large, cleanly cut THICK piece of vegetable tanned leather.
Once you are happy with the results and technique, move on to softer and thinner leathers which will test your skills further. But to learn the basics you need the right leather.
Avoid attempting 3 different stitching techniques in the space of 45mm too. Complete an entire seam (100mm+) with one technique only before marking and stitching a new seam to try and note down EVERYTHING on a notepad about the technique you used.
When you do this, update us with more pictures and we will talk some more.
I am certainly no expert, but if you stick two pieces of that same leather together the back should look better. I have started to believe that under some circumstances you just have to accept that one side will look slightly better than the other. When I cast the thread I feel that I lose some angle on the front too, but noone but me will notice in the end. OK, maybe the people on this forum would. :)
Maybe your using too much tension on some stitches. Are you using a stitching chisel or an awl? If your using an Awl it could be inconsistent holes to start. If your using chisels to hammer holes all the way through, your holes should be consistent. Face leather on both sides will definitely present better aswell. Right side...tension the thread down and towards yourself. Left side...tension thread up and away from you to encourage the angle. Use very light tension for now to see what the stitch angles look like...that leather looks a bit soft so light tension would be key to avoid the stitch straightening out and the leather puckering affect.
Do both sides need to be flesh (smooth) for saddle stitching to angle and present properly?